Just Raku

[Just Raku] May 2007 #47 Open Air Raku

2007-05-17T01:14:00.000-06:00

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JUST RAKU

The Newsletter for Raku Artists and Raku Art Lovers

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May 2007

Issue #46

Published by

Gary R. Ferguson – Raku Artist

http://www.garyrferguson.com

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In This Issue

* While the Smoke Clears – Poll was a Success, Finally

* Open Air Raku?

* High Alkaline Frits

* I Raku the Body Electric

* The Perfect Setup

* Sun Fired Raku?

* Raku Links

* Workshops

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* While the Smoke Clears *

First of all I want to thank everyone that took the time to

complete the New Products Poll. Despite the technical

issues that I ran into with my database, I think it was a

real success. I really appreciated all the feedback

provided in the Bonus Questions answers as well. There

were lots of good questions and ideas that I will try to

incorporate into future newsletters, reports, and products.

If you have not completed the poll yet, it is still

available for a short time at:

www.garyrferguson.com/justrakupoll_1.htm

Before you continue on with this month's newsletter please

forward a copy to all your Raku friends and encourage them

to subscribe as well.

And if you received this newsletter from a friend consider

subscribing at www.justraku.com

I would love to continue expanding this Raku "community."

~-~-~

"I must thank you for all the great recipes. I was a bit

stuck for new recipes. I'll be here for thirty years

trying all these out." - Simon D.

http://www.rakuglazes.com

~-~-~

* Open Air Raku?

Anne Asked:

I'm trying to find a way to Raku small items, like beads

with a torch and a small reduction can. Do you know of any

information?

Rakuing small items can be a challenge and I've mentioned a

few techniques in prior newsletters and in my books:

http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku25.htm

http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku26.htm

http://www.rakusecrets.com

http://www.rakubeadjewelry.com

I've also used a blowtorch in the post firing process to

alter the colors in a fired piece, which I have covered as

well at:

http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku25.htm

http://www.rakusecrets.com

The problem I can see in trying to use a blowtorch to fire

a small piece is it would be very difficult to get even

heating of the piece. Even with very small pieces the side

of the piece that is being hit with the flame is going to

be much hotter than the side away from the flame. This

will very likely cause the piece to crack or even explode.

~-~-~

"Our class fired again last night, and the instructor

followed your tips and voila. Boy do we have copper. Its

great knowing we can do it, and I really appreciate your

help. Thanks again!"-Shannon P. http://www.rakusecrets.com

~-~-~

* High Alkaline Frits

The following two glazes are from "The Complete Potter" by

Steve Mattison. I'm having trouble knowing which frit to

use. Laguna Clay told me to use 3134 for the alkaline frit

and high alkaline frit, but then I noticed there is also a

borax frit. Thanks for any insight you can provide.

Turquoise Luster 1830F

High alkaline frit 50

Borax frit 20

Copper oxide 4

Bentonite 3

Copper Matte 1740-1830F

Copper oxide 95

Alkaline frit 5

Well, this is what I found at:

http://ceramic-materials.com/cermat/material/f.html

This should give you some ideas of Frits to try.

Alkaline Frit

Frit 285

High Alkaline Frits:

Frit 3110

Frit 3230

Frit 3327

Borax Frits

Frit 1047

Frit 2263

Frit 3195

High Borax Frits

Frit 3278

High Boron Frits

Frit 3124

Frit 3134

~-~-~

Books, Music, Videos and that's just the start. Amazon

sells more than books! Help support this newsletter by

using this link: http://www.garyrferguson.com/amazon

~-~-~

* I Raku the Body Electric

Another reader provides feedback on firing Raku using an

electric kiln…

In response to the questions about firing Raku in an

electric kiln, it works just fine. I always turn the kiln

on and get it red-hot (1800 F.) ahead of time, empty, and

get a good charcoal BBQ going next to it, to use for

preheating the glazed pots.

Another thing to think about, with respect to older kilns,

is that when the elements finally do fail, and you can't

redo them (or if someone is getting rid of a dead electric)

it is a simple matter to poke holes in the brick walls, one

or two at the bottom for gas burners, depending on size,

and one on top as a flue.

Place a kiln shelf on a couple of brick pieces, to put your

pots on, and to spread the flames out. A hole saw works

well on the sheet metal, if you run your drill slowly and

you use some oil or wax as a lubricant.

If it was a top-loader, you can turn it on its side first,

to save heat each time it's opened. You don't really want

to get rid of a kiln unless it's literally falling to

pieces.

~-~-~

After reading Sue's book I discovered dozens of tips,

techniques, and methods of creating Raku beads and jewelry

that I never would have thought of. The hundreds of color

photos are not only instructional but inspiring as well.

There is a new idea to try on almost every page. This book

is a gold mine!" http://www.rakubeadjewelry.com

~-~-~

* The Perfect Set up

A reader emailed me a while back about the "perfect" Raku

setup. She was getting ready to build an area for Rakuing

and wanted to know my thoughts.

Well everyone probably has a different idea of what would

be considered a "perfect" setup. Usually there is a

financial influence on what we can do for our setup, but if

money were no object, I would have the following setup:

First I would have a computer controlled electric kiln for

bisque firing. I think it is much easier to bisque fire in

an electric kiln than any other kind.

Now for the Raku glaze firing, I would want two gas kilns

that had lids that could be operated by a single person (so

I can Raku solo). Why two kilns? Well with two kilns I

could have one load firing while the second is being

unloaded, cooled, and reloaded. It would allow for much

higher production than using a single kiln.

Finally I would want one or two dozen reduction chambers of

various sizes including a sand pit. Why so many? Well, I

find I get better results if the reduction chamber is just

slightly large than the piece. Also I want to always have

a prepared and cooled reduction chamber available to

receive a hot piece.

Now if money were really no object, I would want an extra

large electric kiln and a really large gas kiln. This

would allow me to make much larger pieces than I can today.

Currently I'm limited pieces no larger than about 17 inches

due to the size of my kilns. I would love to have the

kilns to support firing much larges pieces.

Well that would be my wish...

~-~-~

Discover the secrets to creating multiple streams of income

using the power of eBay. A Powerseller shows you how at:

http://www.planetsms.co.uk/partners/?a=9OpcT9Pu&p=1

~-~-~

* Sun Fired Raku?

In a prior Just Raku issue I address the possible impact of

Raku on the topic of Global Warming.

http://www.garyrferguson.com/issues/jr43a.htm

Well one reader had some feedback on this topic and even an

idea for firing using the sun. The idea would take some

development, but it is an interesting idea none the less...

Firing pottery, especially stoneware, does indeed put a lot

of carbon into the atmosphere. Sooner or later, in

contemplating the "greenhouse effect", we will all have to

come to terms with our habits, and modify our firing

methods accordingly.

Electric kilns will still be viable of course, if the power

derives from wind, solar, or hydroelectric sources.

However, the sterility of neutral kiln atmospheres leaves a

lot to be desired.

I propose that Raku will be an increasingly exciting

alternative, and work should begin now thinking of ways to

harness the sun's energy directly, to generate flameless

heat for firing. A good way to do this might be to make a

focusable stretched Mylar concave mirror (something like

this was actually demonstrated on Myth Busters a while

back) that could track the sun across the sky, and

concentrate its reflected heat into a small open-sided,

box-shaped kiln, made of zirconia brick. After a bisque

pot is given a suitable pre-heat, it should only take

moments inside such a kiln to melt the average Raku glaze.

The kiln would also have to be gradually moved, to stay

within range of the focused beam of sunlight. Clay

bodies will need to be formulated to withstand the thermal

shock, which will be quite a bit greater than what occurs

in present-day Raku methods.

~-~-~

"It's all your fault! I was up all night reading "Raku

Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and

still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of

new insight. Thanks so much". - Elaine S.

http://www.rakusecrets.com

~-~-~

* Click Away *

Raku Glazes http://www.rakuglazes.com

Raku Secrets http://www.rakusecrets.com

Raku Beads http://www.rakubeadjewelry.com

Got Raku? http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku

Just Raku Archive http://www.JustRaku.com

Just Raku Blog http://justraku.blogspot.com

Hypnotic Auctions http://www.hypnoticauctions.com

~-~-~

Books, Music, Videos and that's just the start. Amazon

sells more than books! Help support this newsletter by

using this link: http://www.garyrferguson.com/amazon

~-~-~

* Workshops and Seminars

June 2007: 'La Magie du Tour', Ottignies, Belgium.

Info: www.lamagiedutour.com

For more information in regards to these workshops

please contact WALLY ASSELBERGHS at corneel51@yahoo.com or

www.wallyasselberghs.be

If you have a workshop coming up, let me know.

~-~-~

Learn the secrets to creating eBay auctions that get more

bids and higher final prices. Don't list artwork, or

anything else without this book by your side.

http://www.hypnoticauctions.com

~-~-~

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,

questions, and article ideas at: editor@garyrferguson.com

~-~-~

This newsletter is send to opt-in members only. If this

issue was forwarded to you and you would like your own copy

each month subscribe at: http://www.justraku.com

Disclaimer: Just Raku, the owner(s) and representative(s)

of this website and newsletter will not be held liable for

any direct or indirect losses or damages originating from

the use of any information listed on our website or in our

newsletters. By using this site and newsletter you agree to

indemnify and hold all owners and representative parties of

Just Raku harmless from any claim or demand originating out

of your use of the Just Raku website and/or newsletters.

Use of our website and newsletters is an indication of your

complete understanding and acceptance of these Terms of

Service.

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If you no longer wish to receive this newsletter click on

the link below:

http://www.garyrferguson.com/cgi-bin/ar/register.cgi?unsubscribe=vbDASQwzW5Dc

Just Raku Blog as Moved

2007-02-15T11:58:00.000-07:00

The Just Raku Blog has moved.

Please update your links to:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/wp

One of the Greatest Books just got Better

2007-01-06T15:54:00.000-07:00

One of the best books of all time "Think and Grow Rich" has just been re-released as "The NEW Think and Grow Rich"

This book is not about "get rich quick" scheme but about discovering how to change your mindset to take advantage of opportunities when they appear.

If you order The NEW Think and Grow Rich you get some wonderful free bonuses.

So click here now http://www.garyrferguson.com/thinkandgrow

[Just Raku] Dec 2006 Issue #45

2006-12-13T16:36:00.000-07:00

First of all, I want to wish you a Merry Christmas. Yes,
you read that correctly. I said Merry Christmas. I know, I
know, this is not politically correct these days. I should
say Happy Holidays, Seasons Greetings, or some other highly
generic term but as far as I�m concerned politically
correctness has ruined many concepts by driving everything
to the lowest common denominator. By saying Merry
Christmas to you I�m not trying to challenge your religion,
question your beliefs, or force you to my way of thinking.
I�m merely wishing you good tidings. You should take no
offense as I have no ulterior motives, just as I would not
if you wanted to wish me Happy Hanukkah, Happy Kwanzaa,
Merry December 25th, or whatever you choose to celebrate (or
not). So as this may be the only Merry Christmas wish you
receive this year, I�ll say it again.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!!
:)

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at: editor@garyrferguson.com

~-~-~
"I must thank you for all the great recipes. I was a bit
stuck for new recipes. I'll be here for thirty years
trying all these out." - Simon D. http://www.rakuglazes.com~-~-~

* Electric Raku

Janet asks, �Do you have any information to share re: using
an electric Raku kiln? I just purchased one (because we
live in the country and don't have gas and didn't want to
deal with propane since I am far away from somewhere to go
get it)�

You may have heard potters say �You can�t Raku in a
electric kiln� or �You�ll ruin your kiln�s coils� or some
other �You can�t� statement in regards to using an electric
kiln for Raku. But I don�t agree.

I know several people (some production potters) that
exclusively use electric kilns for Raku, so it definitely
can be done. There are just a few things to keep in mind.

It will take longer to get to temperature. With a gas kiln
you can probably get to temperature in 30 minutes, but an
electric kiln may take several hours.

It is very difficult to conduct a reduction firing in a
electric kiln so this could affect the glaze result
somewhat. I find most of my reduction influence is due to
post-firing reduction anyway, so I wouldn�t worry about
this too much.

There are two safety things you need to concern yourself
with though. First make sure you turn off the power to
your kiln before you reach inside with metal tongs. You
should be wearing thick leather gloves to protect you from
heat (and any electric shock) but you don�t need to take
the chance.

Second, most electric kilns are top loading. This means
when you open the lid you are exposing yourself to extreme
heat. It would be a good idea to set up a pulley or lever
system to open the lid so you do not need to get direcly in
the �line of heat�

Other than these few things to consider, you should be able
to Raku in a electric kiln with no worries.

~-~-~
"Our class fired again last night, and the instructor
followed your tips and voila. Boy do we have copper. Its
great knowing we can do it, and I really appreciate your
help. Thanks again!"-Shannon P. http://www.rakusecrets.com~-~-~

* A Chemical by any other name is still a ...

I had a reader ask me recently if my eBooks
(www.rakuglazes.com and www.rakusecrets.com) contain
conversions from US chemicals to European chemicals. I was
not aware there was any difference (at least for most
chemicals). For example: is Iron Oxide in the US
chemically different from Iron Oxide in Europe? I wouldn�t
think so, but if you happen to know let me know?

I understand some chemicals may be different due to
regional mining conditions. In other words Ball Clay mined
in a certain region of the US may have a slightly different
chemical make up than a Ball Clay mined in another region
in the US or even in Europe (if it is even available in
Europe).

If you are a European potter (or even a US potter) and know
certain differences in chemicals between the two regions, I
would love to hear from you.

~-~-~
Fired Up with Raku is the recently released book by Irene
Poulton is now available. Check out the details at:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/firedupwithraku.htm
~-~-~

* 3 Ways to Check Your Maturity

No, this is not a test to determine if you are an adult.

Roger asks, �How do I know when a matte glaze has matured
in a Raku firing?�

This can be a little challenging compared to determining if
a glossy glaze is mature. A glossy glaze will reflect
light (like water) when you look at it in the kiln. This is
not the case for a matte glaze.

I know of three ways to determine if a matte glaze is
mature:

1) Use a standing pyrometric cone that matches the glaze
maturity temperature. This is probably the best method as
the cone will bend when the proper amount of temperature
and time has been applied.

2) Use a pyrometer and measure the temperature. This is a
little less accurate than a cone, but if you fire to a
certain temperature and then soak the kiln for a few
minutes you should come out alright.

3) Use a glossy �witness� piece. You can fire a small
piece with a glossy glaze that matures at the same
temperature as your matte pieces. Then you can watch for
the glossy piece to mature so you know when the matte
pieces should be mature as well.

~-~-~
After reading Sue�s book I discovered dozens of tips,
techniques, and methods of creating Raku beads and jewelry
that I never would have thought of. The hundreds of color
photos are not only instructional but inspiring as well.
There is a new idea to try on almost every page. This book
is a gold mine!� http://www.rakubeadjewelry.com
~-~-~

* More on Two Halves of the Same Pot

Red had the following comments on firing pieces with both
crackle and matte glazes:
-
Just ideas from my own experiences that might assist Doug,
the artist who mentioned getting two finishes on the same
pot after reduction:

Contact with the combustibles in the reduction chamber can
often produce different results on parts of my pots than
other parts. Some artists seem to enjoy the visual
aftermath of contact with combustibles; I usually do not.
So, there are 2 things I sometimes use, that limit the
contact of the newspaper or combustible with the hot pot.

I have lined the inside of my trashcans with chicken wire
bought at the local hardware store. I then put newspaper
shreds between the chicken wire and the trash can, thus
giving more room for the hot pot and reducing the incidence
of touch between the pot and the combustible. I leave a few
strands of newspaper in the very bottom, which ignites and
catches the newspaper shreds within the chicken
wire on fire.

Also, I often put a hard brick in the bottom of the trash
can to sit the hot pot on. Again, this limits the area of
the pot that comes into contact with anything but the magic
going on in the atmosphere within the trashcan.

Regarding the bubbling effects on half of Doug's pots, is
it possible that the pot is getting too much or too little
contact with the flame within the Raku kiln? I've had
bubbling problems in the Raku kiln due to heat distribution
problems, but not usually on entire halves of pots. I've
also had trouble with glazes bubbling due to mixing and
application, but that doesn't sound like what's happening,
as Doug mentioned half the pot might bubble. So, again, is
the kiln getting the same amount of direct heat from the
Raku fire on both sides of the pot during firing? Is it
the same side of the pots that is always bubbling, i.e. the
side of the pot away from the Raku flame? Maybe a more
experienced reader might know if that is a possibility. I'm
still in the wondrous guessing stage of learning and
greatly appreciate the comments and ideas in your
newsletter.

~-~-~
Discover the secrets to creating multiple streams of income
using the power of eBay. A Powerseller shows you how at:
http://www.planetsms.co.uk/partners/?a=9OpcT9Pu&p=1~-~-~

* Matte meet Glossy

Sue says, �I enjoy your newsletters, very informative!
Tried some matt glazes, but came out glossy?! Alligator and
Post Pac Man. Fired to 1850F and reduced in newspaper.
Any suggestions?�

Actually this is a pretty easy one. If you fire a matte
glaze too hot it will become semi-glossy or glossy
(depending on how much you overfire).

I would recommend in the case you mention that you try
firing to only 1650F and see if you get a matte glaze
result. If not, fire to a little lower temperature.

~-~-~
"It's all your fault! I was up all night reading "Raku
Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and
still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of
new insight. Thanks so much". - Elaine S.
http://www.rakusecrets.com
~-~-~

* Click Away *

My Raku books are now available via more suppliers, please
visit:

Seattle Pottery Supply www.seattlepotterysupply.com
Axner Pottery www.axner.com
The Potters Shop http://thepottersshop.blogspot.comAnd Amazon http://www.garyrferguson.com/amazon

If you can�t find them in your local pottery supply tell
them to check out at http://www.cherrycreekpublishing.com

Raku Glazes http://www.rakuglazes.com
Raku Secrets http://www.rakusecrets.comRaku Beads http://www.rakubeadjewelry.com
Got Raku? http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Just Raku Archive http://www.JustRaku.com
Just Raku Blog http://justraku.blogspot.com
Hypnotic Auctions http://www.hypnoticauctions.com

~-~-~
Books, Music, Videos and that�s just the start. Amazon
sells more than books! Help support this newsletter by
using this link: http://www.garyrferguson.com/amazon~-~-~

* Workshops and Seminars

None Currently

~-~-~
Learn the secrets to creating eBay auctions that get more
bids and higher final prices. Don�t list artwork, or
anything else without this book by your side.
http://www.hypnoticauctions.com~-~-~

This newsletter is send to opt-in members only. If this
issue was forwarded to you and you would like your own copy
each month subscribe at: http://www.justraku.com

Disclaimer: Just Raku, the owner(s) and representative(s)
of this website and newsletter will not be held liable for
any direct or indirect losses or damages originating from
the use of any information listed on our website or in our
newsletters. By using this site and newsletter you agree to
indemnify and hold all owners and representative parties of
Just Raku harmless from any claim or demand originating out
of your use of the Just Raku website and/or newsletters.
Use of our website and newsletters is an indication of your
complete understanding and acceptance of these Terms of
Service.
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
JUST RAKU (C) Copyright 2002-2006 Gary R. Ferguson

Larry King and The Secret

2006-11-12T14:17:00.000-07:00

Larry King is doing a special on how to
change your life by changing your mind.

It airs on CNN on Nov 16th.

The first part aired on Nov. 2. If you missed it, see
http://whatisthesecret.tv/revealed/larry-king-secret.html

The second part on Nov. 16th has this panel --

James Ray www.jamesray.com
Jack Canfield www.jackcanfield.com
Dr. Joe Vitale www.mrfire.com
George Pratt www.drgeorgepratt.com
Jayne Payne www.theintensiveprogram.com

Larry King Live airs on CNN at 6 p.m. pacific
and re-airs at 9 p.m. pacific and 12 midnight
(which is 9 p.m. eastern, midnight eastern and
3 a.m. eastern; 8 pm central, 11 pm central, and
2 am central).

The show airs overseas on CNN International,
as well. See www.cnn.com/larryking

If you haven't seen "The Secret" yet, I highly
recommend it. It can completed change your life.
It's what inspired these Larry King specials.

Also, Dr. Vitale's book, called "The Attractor
Factor," reveals a proven way to manifest
what you want from the inside out. It just came
out in paperback so there is not excuse to not
get it now.

[Just Raku] Oct 2006 #43 Unstoppable Glaze

2006-10-16T22:49:00.000-06:00

Hello Raku-er,

Well this month was book month. I'm a big reader, but this
month deals with being on the other side.

My first two books Raku Glazes http://www.rakuglazes.com
and Raku Secrets http://www.rakusecrets.com are now
available on Amazon.com
http://www.garyrferguson.com/myamazonbooks so if you
frequent that website check them out. If you already have a
copy of either (or both) and love them, please add a review
on Amazon. I would appreciate it.

Also the new book Fired Up With Raku by Irene Poulton which
I contributed to has been published and is available at:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/firedupwithraku.htm This is
published in the UK and availability in the US is a little
tough.

Finally, my latest ebook (not Raku related) Hypnotic
Auctions is now available at:
http://www.hypnoticauctions.com If you sell your work on
eBay or have wanted to, this ebook should reveal the
methods to attracting customer and getting higher bids on
your listings.

Yes, I know the above was all shameless plugs, but it's my
newsletter after all. Don't worry. Good content is below
for your Raku-ing enjoyment.

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at: editor@garyrferguson.com

~-~-~
"I must thank you for all the great recipes. I was a bit
stuck for new recipes. I'll be here for thirty years
trying all these out." - Simon D. http://www.rakuglazes.com
~-~-~

* Hang Tags in time for Christmas

I read an interesting article in Pottery Making Illustrated
about Hang Tags by Frank James Fisher a couple weeks ago
that I would like to mention. If you sell you items at
craft fairs or even out of your own studio, you may want to
take a look at this article. It provides some great
insight into how to create a simple, but professional
looking hang tag that adds to the look of your pieces
instead of being the typical price tag "eye sore."

So if you are interested in improving the look of your
items for sale (the holiday selling season is right around
the corner) then check out his article at:
http://www.potterymaking.org/issues/2006-0910/Fisher.pdf
(Note: I'm sure how long the link above will be available)

Also if you would like to see some great "realistic" Raku
check out his website at: www.frankjamesfisher.com

* Unstoppable Glaze

Len wrote:
While I was receiving instructions concerning the repair
(installation of new elements) of my electric kiln, the
expert told me to be sure to remove the glaze drips from
the bottom of the kiln, as they would eventually produce a
hole in the bottom of the kiln as they gradually work their
way through the brick. Yesterday, during a Raku fund
raiser, a piece of kiln shelf wound up with a hole
completely through the shelf. I saved the shelf piece,
which clearly shows a hole and glaze on both sides of it.
Is this the same phenomenon? Can glaze actually work its
way through glaze shelves if you don't chip it off and
apply kiln wash?

Very interesting question.

First I attempt to explain the glaze on brick phenomenon.
Firebrick is very porous (full of holes like Swiss cheese).
When the glaze drips on the brick it fills some of these
holes. Then when it cools (and shrinks), it actually
breaks some of this fragile brick. If the glaze is left on
there for repeated firing, the glaze will continue to
liquefy, seep further into the brick, cool, solidify, and
break/crack the brick more. If this process repeats enough
times, yes the glaze can "eat" all the way through the
brick.

Now a kiln shelf on the other hand is a little different. A
kiln shelf is made of much tougher stuff and is not as
porous as kiln brick. The main reason you want to get the
glaze on kiln shelves is to keep them smooth and flat and
to prevent them from fusing to kiln furniture or your
pieces. I would think it would be highly unlikely the kiln
shelf developed a hole with the same process as the kiln
brick above. I would think someone would have had to grind
a hole through (or almost through) the kiln shelf (by
repeatedly removing dripped glaze) and then possibly during
the lasting firing a glaze drip finally "broke" through the
shelf.

Just a guess, but I think it would take more than just
glaze to "eat" through a kiln shelf.

~-~-~
After reading Sue's book I discovered dozens of tips,
techniques, and methods of creating Raku beads and jewelry
that I never would have thought of. The hundreds of color
photos are not only instructional but inspiring as well.
There is a new idea to try on almost every page. This book
is a gold mine!" http://www.rakubeadjewelry.com
~-~-~

* Two Halves of the Same Pot

Doug sent in the following:
I have only been "pottering" since last November and have
found that I enjoy Raku firing more than anything else. We
only Raku fire once a month and I attend each one. We have
a very limited inventory of Raku glazes available to us but
the one I like the best is the Glossy Green. I always seem
to have a problem with it � after removing the piece from
the reduction chamber (garbage can with waded up newspaper)
half of the piece will be very shiny and impart lots of
color while the other half will be dull and maybe even a
"bubbled" finish to it. We just had a firing last Saturday
and the top of the piece was just beautiful with lots of
color and was very glossy but the bottom had a very dull
finish to it. Is there a way to make both top and bottom
halves of the piece come out the same? I have your book,
Raku Secrets http://www.rakusecrets.com and have enjoyed it
very much.

Well, I can't know exactly what is occurring in these
situations, but I can give you some insight that may help
you out. There are two primary factors as you can guess:
the firing process and the reduction process.

Generally in a Raku firing (because of the speed), the
bottom of a piece get hotter that the top of a piece in a
kiln. This can lead to runs on the bottom with the top
just reaching maturity, or it can get bubbles on the top of
a piece when the bottom is just mature. The bubbles are
caused by gas escaping during the firing and the glaze not
having a change to heal itself by reaching maturity. So the
solution here would be to fire slower and soak at the final
temperature for a little longer to make sure both the top
and the bottom reach about the same temperature at the same
time.

Now during the reduction process you can have two different
impacts on the piece as well. When you place the piece into
the reduction materials the bottom of the piece will often
sit right in the combustibles, which can lead to creating
marks in the glaze and more black marks from the carbon.
Both of which can dull the pieces. The solution here is to
use fewer combustible materials and also place one or more
bricks in the bottom of your reduction chamber set the
piece on to keep the piece elevated out of the reduction
materials better.

Hope this helps.

~-~-~
Discover the secrets to creating multiple streams of income
using the power of eBay. A Powerseller shows you how at:
http://www.planetsms.co.uk/partners/?a=9OpcT9Pu&p=1
~-~-~

* Global Warming with Raku

Another reader wrote:
After Raku-ing for about 10 years, and loving it, I've
grown concerned about my contributing to the effects of
global warming. Has anyone read articles on how the Raku
process effects the environment? Although this is probably
not a popular subject, does anyone have thoughts on this or
get customers inquiring about the subject?

I have to admit. When I first received this email my first
reaction was, you've got to be kidding. How could this be
affecting the ozone, etc. But then I didn't a little
looking around on the Internet and I am a little more
"educated".

First I couldn't find any articles specifically addressing
Raku and Global Warming (so I guess this is the first). But
on Wikipedia I read that Global warming is primarily
attributed to increased amounts of carbon dioxide and other
greenhouse gases (water vapor, methane, nitrous oxide,
ozone, etc.)

The first of these, carbon dioxide is produced in several
ways, which include combustion of organic material and even
the act of breathing (oxygen in - carbon dioxide out).

So given these facts, I can say that yes, the Raku process
does "contribute" to Global Warming ... but so does forest
fires, barbequing, driving a car, water evaporating from
the oceans, cow burps (methane), visiting the dentist
("laughing gas"), and even breathing, along with a jillion
other things.

But do I think it contributes significantly? Of course not.
How many hours (or make that years) would I have to fire my
Raku kiln to equal the impact of one forest fire? Or one
oil burning car? Or one industrial factory? I think the
comparative impact is miniscule at best.

So I personally would not worry about adding to the
Greenhouse effect, but others might look at any possible
increase as bad, so if this is you, then you may want to
find another art form to express yourself with.

I, on the other hand, will plant a tree and keep Raku-ing.

~-~-~
"It's all your fault! I was up all night reading "Raku
Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and
still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of
new insight. Thanks so much". - Elaine S.
http://www.rakusecrets.com
~-~-~

* Click Away *
Frank James Fisher
www.frankjamesfisher.com

Christine Cox
http://www.potfest.co.uk/ChristineCox/raku.htm

Steven Forbes-deSoule
http://www.stevenforbesdesoule.com/

Raku Glazes http://www.rakuglazes.com
Raku Secrets http://www.rakusecrets.com
Raku Beads http://www.rakubeadjewelry.com
Got Raku? http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Just Raku Archive http://www.JustRaku.com
Just Raku Blog http://justraku.blogspot.com
Hypnotic Auctions http://www.hypnoticauctions.com

~-~-~
Books, Music, Videos and that's just the start. Amazon
sells more than books! Help support this newsletter by
using this link: http://www.garyrferguson.com/amazon
~-~-~

* Workshops and Seminars

None Currently

~-~-~
Raku: A Practical Approach by Steven Branfman
The "nuts and bolts" how-to book of Raku
Order 30% off at: http://www.garyrferguson.com/branfman
~-~-~

This newsletter is send to opt-in members only. If this
issue was forwarded to you and you would like your own copy
each month subscribe at: http://www.justraku.com

[Just Raku] September 2006 Issue Online

2006-09-25T22:57:00.000-06:00

The September Issue (#42) of the Just Raku Newsletter is now online at
http://www.garyrferguson.com/issues/jr42.htm

I'm may have missed this issue.

Enjoy!

Gary R. Ferguson
http://www.garyrferguson.com
http://www.rakuglazes.com
http://www.rakusecrets.com
http://www.rakubeadjewelry.com
http://www.hypnoticauctions.com
http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
http://www.justonlinesecrets.com/impactwebaudio/

[Just Raku] August 2006 Newsletter #41

2006-08-11T01:24:00.000-06:00

Hello All,

As you probably gathered from some of my recent emails it
has been Hot Hot Hot in my neck of the woods. It has
finally started cooling off some. We only have a 100+ day
every 3 to 5 days instead of 9 days in a row. Whewh! I
know, I know, fall and winter are just around the corner
and I'll be complaining about the ice and cold. I'm just
never happy am I? ?

I want to mention something to you. If you received this
email � great - you are lucky, especially if you are using
a Yahoo or Hotmail account. For some reason, about half my
newsletters get rejected from these accounts. Not sure why,
but they do. So if you want to make sure you receive these
newsletters I would suggest you register a different email
address if you have one. If not, you can watch my Just
Raku blog at: http://justraku.blogspot.com for when the
newsletters are published.

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at: editor@garyrferguson.com

~-~-~
"I must thank you for all the great recipes. I was a bit
stuck for new recipes. I'll be here for thirty years
trying all these out." - Simon D. http://www.rakuglazes.com
~-~-~
* How'd they do that?

A while back I had a reader send me a photo of a glaze with
the hopes that someone would know a recipe for the glaze.
The picture can be seen at:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justrakuarticles/misc/zion_mystery_glaze.htm

Well another reader saw the picture and had a new question:
"How did she get the coppery lines affect?"

It is a great affect and this result (or something similar)
could be achieved relatively easily.

First the piece is covered with a glaze, generally quite
thin. This is often done via spraying or dipping the
piece. Then another glaze is drizzled over the first
glaze, which is much thicker.

Now the second glaze may be the same glaze or it may be a
completely different glaze. Often a matte or semi-matte
glaze is used as the base and a glossier glaze is the one
drizzled over the top.

Because either a thicker layer of the same glaze (or a
different glaze) is used, it reacts differently to the
reduction process than the base coat glaze. You will
typically either get a base glaze with more copper than the
dripped glaze or the dripped glaze will have more copper
than the base glaze (as in this example).

This is a great area to explore, overlapping two or more
glazes on the same piece.

As always, test, record, and test some more.

~-~-~
"Our class fired again last night, and the instructor
followed your tips and voila. Boy do we have copper. Its
great knowing we can do it, and I really appreciate your
help. Thanks again!"-Shannon P. http://www.rakusecrets.com~-~-~

* Water Logged Glaze?

A reader asked:
"In the current issue when describing fixes for crawling
you say: 'Using glazes that have been mixed with water for
a long period of time can cause another fit problem,
especially with glazes that are high in Gerstley Borate.
You might try mixing a fresh batch of the problem glaze and
see if you get the same result.' Why should mixing with
water for a long period of time cause problems? I'm
assuming here that you, of course, mix thoroughly before
using. And why, in particular, Gerstley Borate? Does it
loosely bond with the water, or lose internal water to free
water?"

That's a good question.

In my experience, I usually see one of two things with a
glaze that has been mixed with water for a long period of
time (maybe as short as a few hours). It either settles to
the bottom and turns into cement that is very difficult to
get mixed back up, or it turns into a thick sludge that you
have to add more water, to make it useable again. (Gerstley
Borate glazes generally fall into the later category)

The "cement" glaze generally changes on you because it is
so difficult to get it properly mixed again, the formula
will change slightly. It may not be much, but can impact
the result, plus it is just more work.

With the "sludge" glaze, adding more water is what causes
the crawling problem. The added water increases the
shrinkage of the glaze and can affect the bonding
properties of the glaze to the clay body, which is almost
the definition of the crawling defect.

You can read a bit more about this at:
http://www.ceramicsmonthly.com/mustreads/borate.asp

In general my pottery production is very sporadic, so I
only mix up the amount of glaze I will use at one time and
I get more consistent results than using glazes that have
been mixed for a longer period of time.

* Smoking the Neighbors

Given the dryness of my area, everyone gets nervous when
they see smoke. Any smoke. Apparently another reader's
neighbors are nervous as well. He writes, "I was wondering
if you have any ideas how I can contain my Raku smoke or
filter it somehow. My technique involves pulling the piece
from the kiln, then putting it in a metal trashcan. Then I
like to flash the pottery, so I'll put the lid on for a
bit, then I'll take it off until the flames start again,
and do that a few times, then finally I quench it with
water. This gives me the results I want. However, in this
same process I get a lot of smelly smoke. I've tried the
technique of just sealing the trashcan with damp newspaper,
and not quenching it with water, but I don't get good
results that way. The smoke upsets the neighbors."

There are a couple of techniques that can reduce the amount
of smoke you get during your reduction process.
1) You can use a sand pit. Just place the piece on a nest
of newspapers in a sand pit and then cover with a can. The
sand seals the lip of the can.
2) You can try spraying the piece with isopropyl alcohol.
This should cause a reduction on the surface. There will
much more flame but less smoke.
3) You can create a water lock. Which is detailed in Raku
Secrets (http://www.rakusecrets.com). Basically you use a
large tub with a brick in the bottom. Then you fill the
tub with water keeping the water level below the top of the
brick. Then a piece is placed on the brick and another
can, with reduction materials in the bottom is placed over
the top of the piece. The lip of the smaller can sits in
the water and creates a "lock" that keeps the smoke in.
4) You could tell them you are just really lousy at cooking
on the barbecue.

5) You could invite them over to see what you are doing and
even give them a piece as a "please don't complain" bribe.

Hope this helps.

~-~-~
Discover the secrets to creating Hypnotic Auctions that get
more bids and higher final prices. If you sell on eBay or
want to, then join the fr.ee newsletter at:
http://www.hypnoticauctions.com
~-~-~

* Raku in the news

A couple years ago when I was on a business trip to Florida
I had an opportunity to visit a Raku artist that I
discovered on Internet - William K. Turner.

He is a full time artist who creates hundreds of slip cast
pieces year. He creates multiples of the same form, but
uses the dynamics of Raku, and different glazing techniques
to create unique pieces. He also Raku fires using only
electric kilns so this is proof that you can create
beautiful Raku without a gas kiln.

The reason I brought this up is because there is an
interesting article about him online at:
http://brandon.tbo.com/brandon/MGBPIR35EQE.html that you
may be interested to read.

Unfortunately the link to his site in the article was
incorrect. I should be http://www.raku-art.com

* Click Away *

Greg Ashbaugh http://www.rakupots.com
William K. Turner http://www.raku-art.com
Barbara Kobler http://www.claywoman.net

Raku Glazes http://www.rakuglazes.comRaku Secrets http://www.rakusecrets.com
Raku Beads http://www.rakubeadjewelry.com
Got Raku? http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Just Raku Archive http://www.JustRaku.com
Just Raku Blog http://justraku.blogspot.com
Just Raku Logowear http://www.cafepress.com/justraku

~-~-~
Books, Music, Videos and that's just the start. Amazon
sells more than books! Help support this newsletter by
using this link: http://www.garyrferguson.com/amazon
~-~-~

* Workshops and Seminars

SEP 30-OCT 1, 2006 � Northern Arizona
ALTERNATIVES FIRING WORKSHOP AT SEDONA ARTS CENTER
Instructor: Barbara Kobler - Two Days, Full Participation
$105. Limited to 10 people. Techniques Included: Fire 8-12
pots using various tin foil saggars with sulphates,
nitrates, carbonates and combustibles. Ferric chloride
sprayed on hot colored glazes, Layered Raku. Kosai fuming.
Maybe one Naku pot if time permits. See
http://www.sedonaartscenter.com/index.htm
And click on summer 2006 Community Workshops to see the
class description. For technical details contact her at
barbara@claywoman.net

~-~-~
Raku: A Practical Approach by Steven Branfman
The "nuts and bolts" how-to book of Raku
Order 30% off at: http://www.garyrferguson.com/branfman
~-~-~

* Home/Business for sale

Move in and start Rakuing the Same Day!
We are getting out of the business and want to sell our
home, studio, and equipment to another potter. This
includes: a 6,200 sq. home with 2 bedrooms, dream master
bedroom, and three bath. Also there is a 1,200 sq. ft.
covered firing area, kiln room and two studios on 2 acres
of land. Equipment includes: a potter's wheel, a Peter
Pugger, large digital Paragon kiln, and 5 Raku kilns. There
is a great local art market including 35 galleries within a
50-mile radius and several local art fairs. Our home has a
75-mile view of Zion National Park. Property taxes are only
$1,200 a year. Asking price $625,000. Contact Janet
Prentice at Zion Canyon Raku. Toll free number is
866-301-8649 or email zcr@color-country.net

~-~-~
If you are interested in making a little extra money for
taking on-line surveys, click on the link below. Go to
http://www.surveysavvy.com/?id=1424287 and click on 'Join'.

~-~-~
This newsletter is send to opt-in members only. If this
issue was forwarded to you and you would like your own copy
each month subscribe at: http://www.justraku.com

[Just Raku] Too Hot to Raku...

2006-07-18T05:36:00.000-06:00

I don't know how the weather has been in your area but we have had 100F temperatures for the last several days and that is WAY too hot for this guy to stand around a Raku kiln.

So I've been working on getting more past issues posted on line.

The June 2006 Issue #39 is now available at:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/issues/jr39.htm

The feedback on the Raku Beads CD continues to pour in. For example:

"The book is marvelous. It is professionally executed. The format is great. The pictures are beautiful, but the main selling point for me is that it is concise and easy to understand. I have learned a million things about Raku beads that I didn't know before. I felt exactly as the author did. Many in my ceramics class kind of "looked down their noses" at me when I first started. Since then, my work has improved by leaps and bounds. Now it will be EVEN BETTER. Thanks again for a book on such a specialized field." Gretchen S.

You can get your copy at http://www.rakubeadjewelry.com

Enjoy!
Gary R. Ferguson
NEW http://www.hypnoticauctions.com
http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
http://www.rakuglazes.com
http://www.rakusecrets.com
http://www.garyrferguson.com

[Just Raku] Issue #40 Now Online

2006-07-10T22:56:00.000-06:00

The July Issue (#40) of the Just Raku Newsletter is now online at
http://www.garyrferguson.com/issues/jr40.htm

Enjoy!
Gary R. Ferguson
http://www.garyrferguson.com
http://www.rakuglazes.com
http://www.rakusecrets.com
http://www.rakubeadjewelry.com
http://www.hypnoticauctions.com
http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku

Save money again

2006-06-28T18:18:00.000-06:00

Get $5 off any order of $35 at Cafepress using coupon code SRV125 by July 4, 2006

Hurry up and go to:

www.cafepress.com/gotraku

www.cafepress.com/rakusecrets

www.cafepress.com/justraku

Two New Links

2006-06-27T23:14:00.000-06:00

Raku Bead Jewelry
www.rakubeadjewelry.com

Hypnotic Auctions Newsletter
www.hypnoticauctions.com

[Just Raku] Your Raku Beads Questions Answered

2006-06-26T13:06:00.000-06:00

Hello,

There have been a ton of questions about the Raku Beads CD eBook by Sue Ki Wilcox http://www.garyrferguson.com/rakubeadsbook.htm that I mentioned last week, so I thought I would address them all at once:

Q: Can the CD be used on the MAC?
A: Yes, the CD ebook can be used with either a PC or a MAC.

Q: Why is the eBook on a CD?
A: It's too big to download. The Hi-res picture version is over 160 MB. There are a LOT of color pictures

Q: How much is shipping outside the US?
A: Right now, it is Fr ee as well. I don't expect this to last so order now!

Q: What is the shipping timeframe?
A: CDs should be mailed 24-48 hours after ordering. Then shipping should take 3-5 days in the US. Shipping to foreign counties will of course take longer

Q: Is this CD only for making Raku beads/jewelry?
A: No. About 2/3 or more of the book is dedicated to construction techniques, projects, and examples that would apply to any clay technique including Porcelain, fimo, and Precious Metal clays.

The response to Sue's book so far has been great (I hear the CD Burner is smoking!)

I wanted to mention there have been a couple of undeliverable email addresses associated with individual's PayPal accounts, so if you ordered and never received a confirmation email for the bonuses. Let me know.

You can see the Raku Beads offer here:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/rakubeadsbook.htm

The next Just Raku Newsletter is just days away.

Gary R. Ferguson
http://www.garyrferguson.com

http://www.justraku.com

[Just Raku] Three Quick Things for You

2006-06-21T14:44:00.000-06:00

I have just a couple quick things to share with you.

First, the next issue of Just Raku is just around the corner so
be on the lookout.

Second, I have run across a wonderful new resource for making
Raku Jewelry. See the details at: http://www.garyrferguson.com/rakubeadsbook.htm

You won't be sorry.

Third, if you have been waiting to buy anything at
Cafepress, now is your chance. You can save $5 by using
the coupon code MOTIFSALTS by June 26, 2006

My shops are at:
http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
http://www.cafepress.com/rakusecrets
http://www.cafepress.com/justraku
(Note: the coupon is good for any shop at Cafepress)

That's it for now.

Enjoy your day!

Gary R. Ferguson
Raku Artist
http://www.garyrferguson.com
http://www.justraku.com

New Just Raku Articles have been posted

2006-06-08T22:28:00.000-06:00

Making Raku Shard Wall Art
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justrakuarticles/articles/making_raku_wall_art.htm

Careful Clay Drying
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justrakuarticles/tips/clay_drying_tip.htm

Grass Glazing Technique
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justrakuarticles/question_answer/raku_grass_glaze_technique.htm

Bad @ss Alligator Glaze
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justrakuarticles/glazes/alligator_raku_glaze_bad.htm

Enjoy!

Just Raku Newsletter - Latest Issue

2006-06-04T16:46:00.000-06:00

Hello All,

Well May was my best month of Internet sales ever.
Especially for plates and shard wall art. I guess some
people got nice tax returns and I definitely don't mind
them sharing with me! I'm going to have to get busy and get
some more pieces done. There just seems to never enough
daylight.

I wanted to give you a heads up that a new Raku book should
be available soon. I'm not writing it, but I was asked to
contribute a section to the book. I was quite honored
given the list of other contributors. I got to proof my
sections (and saw a sneak peak of the other guest artists)
a few weeks ago. I understand it will be available round
August of this year. So I'll keep you posted when I know
more.

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at: editor@garyrferguson.com

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"I must thank you for all the great recipes. I was a bit
stuck for new recipes. I'll be here for thirty years
trying all these out." - Simon D.
http://www.garyrferguson.com/cgi-bin/amlmlite/r.cgi?u=VWeMwhSZ603T&l=1&m=7
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* I've seen the light...

Louise P. writes:
"I have a question for you. I want to make those glazes
with silver nitrate in them to reach those marvelous golden
colors but I was wondering, I know that silver nitrate
reacts to light so I will keep the glaze in a container
that doesn't let the light through, but are there some
other precautions I have to take while glazing? Should the
pieces remain covered before getting them in the kiln? How
long those glazes could keep?"

Ah, Silver Nitrate can create a wonderful effect but can be
such a pain to work with. For those of you who don't know,
Silver Nitrate is the stuff they put on picture film
(remember cameras that actually use film before digital
cameras ruled the world) that reacts to the light to
produce a picture. So the stuff is very light sensitive.

So how do you handle it? First you need to keep if from the
light as much as possible. Keep it stored in a dark
container or even a dark container in a dark container.

Now you only want to mix up the amount of glaze you can use
in a short period of time (a few minutes). Then after the
pieces are glazes get them fired as soon as possible (a few
hours or less). Again if the glazed pieces can be stored
in a dark place the better off you will be.

Another thing to keep in mind is Silver Nitrate is very
reactive on your skin. If you get any on you it will be
there for a long while so make sure you always use gloves
when dealing with this chemical (you should be using glove
to glaze anyway � right?)

~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-
Books, Music, Videos and that's just the start. Amazon
sells more than books! Help support this newsletter by
using this link: http://www.garyrferguson.com/amazon
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* 411 on ITC

Carole L. asks:
"What is ITC, and where can I get it? It sounds like a good
addition to my self-built RAKU kiln."

In my last issue of Just Raku I mentioned the use of ITC in
a fiber based kiln, but failed to explain the details of
ITC. So here goes:

ITC is a ceramic coating that can be sprayed (or painted)
onto a surface to aid in the efficiency of kiln maintaining
heat and also to protect the surface from the corrosive
environment inside a kiln.

There are different formulas of ITC for different purposes
such as, kiln coating, kiln furniture protection, brick
repair, and heating element protection.

The stuff is a little expensive but over the long haul the
cost should be made up in fuel savings.

You can read more about this stuff at the Axner pottery
site link below (you can also order it here)
http://www.pottery-books.com/axner/equipment/itc-ceramic-
coatings.php

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"Our class fired again last night, and the instructor
followed your tips and voila. Boy do we have copper. Its
great knowing we can do it, and I really appreciate your
help. Thanks again!"-Shannon P.
http://www.garyrferguson.com/cgi-bin/amlmlite/r.cgi?u=VWeMwhSZ603T&l=2&m=7
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

* Another Crawling Cause

In the last issue we covered some of the reasons for a
glaze to crawl on a piece. Well Red in Roachville,
submitted the additional idea:

"I over-bisque fired a group of pots. My kiln sitter was on
the blink, and I miscalculated the firing time for the
greenware. The pieces were just a bit too "hard" to accept
the glazes as usual, and crawled when Raku-fired."

So add that to your bag of tricks.

~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-
Raku 2nd Edition � Tim Andrews
This new edition has been completely re-written and updated
with over 200 all new, full-color photos of beautiful Raku
pottery http://tinyurl.com/bt7fk
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* N&ked Refiring Revisited
by Wally Asselberghs

Some additional feedback on the "refiring N&ked Raku" topic
discussed last issue:

I agree with you about not recommending to apply a clear
Raku glaze on top of a n&ked Raku surface, and then fire it
again. Most likely, the original surface will be burnished
to some extent or another, and the Raku glaze will not melt
down the way it should normally do on a rougher bisqued
surface. Chances are very high that the glaze will peel off
later on, completely or partially. Most of the time this is
not very aesthetical pleasing.

On the other hand, my personal experience in regard of
"carbon burning off if the piece is refired" is a little
bit different.

First of all, I always tell students during my workshops
that one of the great advantages of n&ked Raku is that you
can always start all over again, if the results are not
satisfactory after the first firing.

Just remove all remnants of glaze layer and slip layer, and
fire again in a bisque kiln. Not even necessary to fire up
to full bisque temperature. When looking through the
peephole, most carbon has disappeared around 500� Celcius,
and everything is gone once you have passed the 600�
Celcius barrier.

I have re-fired a lot of my personal work, even 2 to 3
times, including objects that were made of slabs and
scorched together.

One student in Arizona once asked me what would happen if
the object was not bisqued again, but a new layer of slip
and glaze was just put on top of the original result, and
fired again in a second kiln firing. I decided to consider
it an experiment, and tried it out at the second day of the
workshop.

It turned out really nice.

Though most of the original carbon marks had faded away,
you could still see some of the original smoke patterns
left behind by the first firing, though quite subdued.
Looked like some kind of patchwork, and certainly opened up
some new perspectives.

Though I never tried it again, I kept the idea in the back
of my mind for further experiments.

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
Raku: A Practical Approach by Steven Branfman
The "nuts and bolts" how-to book of Raku
Order 30% off at: http://www.garyrferguson.com/branfman
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

* Click Away *

Just Raku Blog http://justraku.blogspot.com
Just Raku Logowear http://www.cafepress.com/justraku
Got Raku? http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Just Raku Archive http://www.JustRaku.com
Just Raku Article Archive
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justrakuarticles

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"It's all your fault! I was up all night reading "Raku
Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and
still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of
new insight. Thanks so much". - Elaine S.
http://www.garyrferguson.com/cgi-bin/amlmlite/r.cgi?u=VWeMwhSZ603T&l=2&m=7
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Workshops and Seminars

N&ked Raku Workshops with Wally Asselberghs
2-day N&ked Raku workshops to be led by Wally Asselberghs
on June 17-18 and June 24-25, 2006, in Sterrebeek
(Brussels), Belgium . First weekend in English with French
and/or Dutch explanations, second weekend in French
(depending on participant enrollment) with English and/or
Dutch explanations. 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. each day, limited to 8
participants, up to 10 bisque-fired pieces (max. 15 cm wide
and 35 cm high) can be prepared and fired/smoked per
participant. This is a great opportunity to meet Wally and
learn his slip & glaze techniques. For more info,
electronic flyer, registration info and form, technical
sheet, etc., contact richardrobinson1@gmail.com or by phone
+ 32 479 223 047.

* * *

"All Fired Up" Alternative firing Techniques" conference in
New York starting July 6th running thru the 9th. This
conference will take place in Garden City NY at Adelphi
University. It is sponsored by the potters council and will
feature raku, pit, horsehair, printmaking on clay, single
firing, and Anagama. You can get further info at
www.potterscouncil.org Lots of Raku people will be there
like Randy Brodnax, Don Ellis, Steve Branfman, Harvey Sadow
to name a few. Contact Gina Mars at www.marspottery.net for
more details.

* * *

Alternative Raku workshop will be held at Mother Earth Clay
Art Center in Sunnyvale California on July 15 and 16.
Students are to bring 12 -20 "prepared" pots to fire during
the two days. We will cover one and two step n&ked Raku,
horse hair carbonization, and ferric chloride
applications. We will also combine these three techniques
for special effects. More information is available at
www.mamasclay.org then Click on workshops.

~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-
Raku: Investigations Into Fire by David Jones
Order 30% off at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5x
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Home/Business for sale

We are selling our home, potters wheel, peter pugger,
paragon kiln (large & digital), and 5 Raku kilns. There is
a 6,200 sq. home (2 bedrooms, unfinished 1,200 sq. ft dream
master bedroom) three bath. Also there is a 1,200 covered
firing area, kiln room and two studio's on 2 acres of
land. We are getting out of the business and want to sell
our home to another potter. There are over 35 galleries
within a 50 mile radius, several art fairs in this area and
art support in the form of Z-Arts. Our home has a 75 mile
view of Zion National park. Property taxes of $1,200 a
year. Basset mission style living room set and fruit wood
dinner table, with lots of southwest art that just matches
the house. Asking price $525,000.00. Contact Janet
prentice at Zion canyon Raku. Toll free number is 866-301-
8649 or email zcr@color-country.net

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
If you are interested in making a little extra money for
taking on-line surveys, click on the link below. Go to
http://www.surveysavvy.com/?id=1424287 and click on 'Join'.
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

This newsletter is send to opt-in members only. If this
issue was forwarded to you and you would like your own copy
each month subscribe at:
http://www.justraku.com

If you wish to no longer receive this newsletter click on
the following link:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/cgi-bin/amlmlite/register.cgi?unsubscribe=VWeMwhSZ603T

Poker Stars Blogger Tournament

2006-06-03T20:25:00.000-06:00

Ok lets try this again

I have registered to play in the PokerStars World Blogger Championship of Online Poker!

This Online Poker Tournament is a No Limit Texas Holdem event exclusive to Bloggers.

Registration code: 2706631

[Just Raku] June 2006 Newsletter #39

2006-05-31T22:40:00.000-06:00

Hello All,

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at: editor@garyrferguson.com

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"I must thank you for all the great recipes. I was a bit
stuck for new recipes. I'll be here for thirty years
trying all these out." - Simon D. http://www.rakuglazes.com
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* I've seen the light...

So how do you handle it? First you need to keep if from the
light as much as possible. Keep it stored in a dark
container or even a dark container in a dark container.

* 411 on ITC

Carole L. asks:
"What is ITC, and where can I get it? It sounds like a good
addition to my self-built RAKU kiln."

In my last issue of Just Raku I mentioned the use of ITC in
a fiber based kiln, but failed to explain the details of
ITC. So here goes:

There are different formulas of ITC for different purposes
such as, kiln coating, kiln furniture protection, brick
repair, and heating element protection.

The stuff is a little expensive but over the long haul the
cost should be made up in fuel savings.

You can read more about this stuff at the Axner pottery
site link below (you can also order it here)
http://www.pottery-books.com/axner/equipment/itc-ceramic-
coatings.php

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"Our class fired again last night, and the instructor
followed your tips and voila. Boy do we have copper. Its
great knowing we can do it, and I really appreciate your
help. Thanks again!"-Shannon P. http://www.rakusecrets.com
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

* Another Crawling Cause

In the last issue we covered some of the reasons for a
glaze to crawl on a piece. Well Red in Roachville,
submitted the additional idea:

So add that to your bag of tricks.

~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-
Raku 2nd Edition Tim Andrews
This new edition has been completely re-written and updated
with over 200 all new, full-color photos of beautiful Raku
pottery http://tinyurl.com/bt7fk
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* N&ked Refiring Revisited
by Wally Asselberghs

Some additional feedback on the "refiring N&ked Raku" topic
discussed last issue:

I agree with you about not recommending to apply a clear
Raku glaze on top of a n&ked Raku surface, and then fire it
again. Most likely, the original surface will be burnished
to some extent or another, and the Raku glaze will not melt
down the way it should normally do on a rougher bisqued
surface. Chances are very high that the glaze will peel off
later on, completely or partially. Most of the time this is
not very aesthetical pleasing.

On the other hand, my personal experience in regard of
"carbon burning off if the piece is refired" is a little
bit different.

First of all, I always tell students during my workshops
that one of the great advantages of n&ked Raku is that you
can always start all over again, if the results are not
satisfactory after the first firing.

Just remove all remnants of glaze layer and slip layer, and
fire again in a bisque kiln. Not even necessary to fire up
to full bisque temperature. When looking through the
peephole, most carbon has disappeared around 500° Celcius,
and everything is gone once you have passed the 600°
Celcius barrier.

I have re-fired a lot of my personal work, even 2 to 3
times, including objects that were made of slabs and
scorched together.

One student in Arizona once asked me what would happen if
the object was not bisqued again, but a new layer of slip
and glaze was just put on top of the original result, and
fired again in a second kiln firing. I decided to consider
it an experiment, and tried it out at the second day of the
workshop.

It turned out really nice.

Though most of the original carbon marks had faded away,
you could still see some of the original smoke patterns
left behind by the first firing, though quite subdued.
Looked like some kind of patchwork, and certainly opened up
some new perspectives.

Though I never tried it again, I kept the idea in the back
of my mind for further experiments.

* Click Away *

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"It's all your fault! I was up all night reading "Raku
Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and
still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of
new insight. Thanks so much". - Elaine S.
http://www.rakusecrets.com
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Workshops and Seminars

* * *

* Home/Business for sale

This newsletter is send to opt-in members only. If this
issue was forwarded to you and you would like your own copy
each month subscribe at:
http://www.justraku.com

If you wish to no longer receive this newsletter send an
email to unsubscribe@garyrferguson.com with UNSUBSCRIBE in
the subject line.

Potter Plays Poker Again

2006-05-26T14:06:00.000-06:00

I have registered to play in the PokerStars World Blogger Championship of Online Poker!

This Online Poker Tournament is a No Limit Texas Holdem event exclusive to Bloggers.

Registration code: 7330476

Potter Plays Poker Again

2006-05-26T14:05:00.000-06:00

I have registered to play in the PokerStars World Blogger Championship of Online Poker!

This Online Poker Tournament is a No Limit Texas Holdem event exclusive to Bloggers.

Registration code: 7330476

[Just Raku] April 2006 Newsletter #38

2006-03-27T23:03:00.000-07:00

I know. I know. You have probably wondered where the
newsletters have been. Well I have to admit, I've missed
getting the last couple out. This is the first one since
January, so you don't need to go looking in your SP@M box
for February and March. They didn't happen.

I won't bore you with the life and times of me, but lets
just say being busy would be an understatement and
something had to give for a while and unfortunately the
last couple month's of this newsletter was the casualty.

You may notice this newsletter is not as long as ones in
the past. I plan on this shorter format going forward with
the hopes this will allow me to publish them more
regularly. Fingers crossed.

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at: editor@garyrferguson.com

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"I must thank you for all the great recipes. I was a bit
stuck for new recipes. I'll be here for thirty years
trying all these out." - Simon D. http://www.rakuglazes.com
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Crawling Glaze Cure

Loretta M. writes:

I have your Raku glaze book http://www.rakuglazes.com) and
have tried some of the glazes. I know that everyone fires
differently etc. but the last couple of years I have been
having trouble with my glazes crawling - sort of! This has
been happening with tried and true glazes that I have used
for years. These are mostly the gloss glazes like Del
Favero Luster and Reynolds Wrap and a few others. These
are glazes that were very successful in the past. They
also have a large amount of Gerstley Borate in them. Could
this be the problem? Someone suggested that these glazes
may be low in clay and I should maybe add some ball
clay. Any thoughts on this? I'd greatly appreciate your
help on this. Love the newsletter!

There are several things that can cause a glaze to crawl.
One of the most common is dirty/dusty bisque ware. If your
bisque pieces have been sitting around for a while,
especially in a dusty location, like say a pottery studio,
they have probably picked up a layer of grime. If this
grime is not removed before the glaze is applied, you can
get a crawling result. The easiest way to fix this is just
use a damp sponge and clean off the bisque pieces and let
them dry before you glaze them.

Another cause of crawling is a poor clay to glaze fit. In
this case the glaze would be shrinking far more than the
clay body. So one question is have you changed clay
bodies? If so, this could be the culprit.

Using glazes that have been mixed with water for a long
period of time can cause another fit problem, especially
with glazes that are high in Gerstley Borate. You might
try mixing a fresh batch of the problem glaze and see if
you get the same result.

Finally another cause can be from the firing process
itself. The crawling could be caused from severe bubbling
of the glaze before it matures resulting in areas of the
pieces missing glaze. Severe bubbling can be the caused by
a very fast firing or firing in a strong reduction
environment.

Finally another thought it to just enjoy the result. Some
artists actually cause the crawling effect on purpose with
their glaze to create a very unique look.

Hopefully this helps.

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"Our class fired again last night, and the instructor
followed your tips and voila. Boy do we have copper. Its
great knowing we can do it, and I really appreciate your
help. Thanks again!"-Shannon P. http://www.rakusecrets.com
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

* It is all in the Bisque

John J. had a really bad day...

I have both of your Raku books (http://www.rakusecrets.com
and http://www.rakuglazes.com) and have found them very
useful. I have a teaching studio and we have done a few
Raku firings with fairly good success. Especially when
considering beginner potters' pots!

This past Saturday we Raku fired again with horrible
results - lost 80% of the pieces. Pots were cracked when
removed from the kiln and most fell apart after reduction.
I used the same clay from the same batch as before which
was Standard's 239.

The only variable I can see is that I bisque fired at a
"fast bisque" to ^05 rather than a slow bisque to ^05
(using a controller) as I always do.

The other issue is that we had very little copper coloring.
We used your Red Bronze as well as Roberts Copper and Red
Luster. We had lots & lots of green but virtually NO copper
or reds; and minimal metallic flashing of any color. Raku
firing was done to 1800F in an Olympic Raku kiln.

Did I fire too high and/or too fast in the bisque firing?
Did I fire too high and/or too fast in the glaze firing?
Did I not reduce long enough to a cool enough temperature?

Obviously my students were very disappointed as it was for
them. Not to mention I lost 9 out of 10 pieces. My only
successful piece was a lidded form 12" high x 10" wide with
clear inside and horsehair with ferric chloride outside. It
was a very nice piece but 1 out of 10 is not cool!

Any advice?

I hate days like that! And I really hate it when that
happens with new Raku potters. It can be very
discouraging.

Well I do have some thoughts. I'm glad you mentioned the
difference in the bisque process because I had a "great"
Raku experience once with a bad bisque firing. The bisque
firing got cancelled a little early and did not reach my
normal bisque temperature of cone 06. I'm not sure what it
really did reach but it was safe to say it was well under
cone 06. Well when I went to fire those pieces, they
either exploded in the kiln or cracked during the reduction
process. I attribute this to a couple of things. The piece
would probably absorb more glaze/water than normal, which
could affect the firing. Also there may be more
"gas/water" that needed to be released during the bisque
process that was occurring during the Raku firing which
again can cause cracking/breaking problems depending on
your Raku firing speed. So your bisque firing may
definitely be the culprit.

Breakage could also be cause by Raku firing too fast as
well, but I'm not sure what your normal firing process is.

As far as the lack of Copper or Red colors goes, this is
normally due to not enough reduction, either in the kiln or
post-firing. Normally for reds you need heavy reduction in
the kiln and for coppers you need heavy post-firing
reduction.

Hang in there. Better days are coming!

* Ultimate Collection Updated

In case you missed it, Raku Glazes: The Ultimate Collection
(2nd Edition) was released earlier this year. There are now
over 360 glazes including some N@ked Raku slips. The
feedback has been great on this latest edition:

"This is a great 2nd edition lots of good additions and the
Naked Raku section was just what I wanted to see."JR P.

"Thank you so much for the 2nd edition. I can't wait to try
some out!"Joyce M.

"So many more recipes to go through and try out. I'm so
happy"-Deborah B.

"Thank-you. Already printed and added to my files"-Carol R.

"Thanks for the update! I love this book!" Lori L.

If you would like to order a copy of Raku Glazes: The
Ultimate Collection, please visit http://www.rakuglazes.com
You won't be disappointed.

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"It's all your fault! I was up all night reading "Raku
Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and
still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of
new insight. Thanks so much". - Elaine S.
http://www.rakusecrets.com
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Click Away *

Wikipedia Raku Entry http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raku
Lynn Dee http://www.lynndeestudios.com/
Just Raku Blog http://justraku.blogspot.com
Just Raku Logowear http://www.cafepress.com/justraku
Got Raku? http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Just Raku Archive http://www.JustRaku.com
Just Raku Article Archive
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justrakuarticles

* Workshops, Ads, etc. *

Raku workshop that covers: Hand building, Raku glazing,
Firing and Reducing flashing glazes and the super secret of
crackle glazes. You will leave with instructions on how to
build you own Raku kiln, glaze recipes and your finished
hand-built piece. Notes on proper firing for all 7 glazes
we use. Workshops include all your meals and lodging. Cost
is $750 for 5 days and $550 for three days. Three-day
workshops do not include hand building project, just
intense glazing and firing. The only dates not available at
this time are: Feb. 5th.-10th., March 1st. thru the 10th.
and April 10th.- 20th. (we have workshops and a vacation
planned on these dates).
If you are flying in we are 2 1/2 hour from Las Vegas and
will pick you up. We are in southern Utah overlooking Zion
National Park. For more info
http://www.rakufountains.com/ebayindex.html

N@ked Raku Workshops with Wally Asselberghs
2-day N@ked Raku workshops to be led by Wally Asselberghs
on June 17+18 and June 24+25, 2006, in Sterrebeek
(Brussels), Belgium . First weekend in English with French
and/or Dutch explanations, second weekend in French
(depending on participant enrollment) with English and/or
Dutch explanations. 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. each day, limited to 8
participants, up to 10 bisque-fired pieces (max. 15 cm wide
and 35 cm high) can be prepared and fired/smoked per
participant. This is a great opportunity to meet Wally and
learn his slip & glaze techniques. For more info,
electronic flyer, registration info and form, technical
sheet, etc., contact richardrobinson1@gmail.com or by phone
+ 32 479 223 047.

This newsletter is send to opt-in members only. If this
issue was forwarded to you and you would like your own copy
each month send an email to subscribe@garyrferguson.com
with SUBSCRIBE in the subject line.

If you wish to no longer receive this newsletter send an
email to unsubscribe@garyrferguson.com with UNSUBSCRIBE in
the subject line.

[Just Raku] January 2006 Newsletter #37

2006-01-18T22:13:00.000-07:00

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
* While the Smoke Clears *

Welcome to 2006!

I hope you survived the holiday season. I know I enjoyed
them but I'm glad they are over for another year.

I don't have a lot going on right now, so I will just dive
into this month's topics.

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at: editor@garyrferguson.com

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"I must thank you for all the great recipes. I was a bit
stuck for new recipes. I'll be here for thirty years
trying all these out." - Simon D. http://www.rakuglazes.com
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Green Not Red

A reader asked why her red crackle was turning out green?

Red is one of those very illusive colors to get in a
pottery glaze, but I do have some thoughts.

Generally a red Raku glaze uses copper carbonate as the
colorant. When this glaze is fired in oxidation and not
reduced you should get green or turquoise (depending on
other chemicals in the glaze).

When a copper rich glaze is heavily reduced you can
achiever copper and/or sometimes red colors.

Generally if a glaze is fired in oxidation and then heavily
reduced you will likely get copper colors. But if the
glaze is fired in reduction and then heavily reduced you
will more likely get red colors.

This is definitely not an exact science, but that's Raku.

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"Our class fired again last night, and the instructor
followed your tips and voila. Boy do we have copper. Its
great knowing we can do it, and I really appreciate your
help. Thanks again!"-Shannon P. http://www.rakusecrets.com
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

* Refiring N@ked Raku

Jonathan writes, "I have had success using Raku clay
bisqued to cone 010 and then a cone 014 N@ked Raku firing.
I thought It would be nice if I could fire my Raku clay to
full maturity (cone 06). So I was wondering, after I get
my naked Raku finish, could I apply a clear coat (06 cone)
on my piece and then fire it again?"

I'm not sure I would recommend this as I have a couple of
warnings. First if you fire a clay to maturity it will be
much more difficult for the glaze to be applied for the
refiring. So you will likely have some kind of glaze
failure in this situation.

Second, the "coloring" of a N@ked Raku piece is due to
carbon staining of the clay during the smoking/reduction
process. If the piece is refired, the carbon will likely
burn off (even if covered with a clear glaze) and you would
lose all the wonderful patterns.

* Ultimate Collection Updated

Raku Glazes: The Ultimate Collection (2nd Edition) has
finally been released. There are over 360 glazes now,
including N@ked Raku slips. I've been very pleased with the
feedback on the new edition:

"This is a great 2nd edition lots of good additions and the
Naked Raku section was just what I wanted to see."JR P.

"Thank you so much for the 2nd edition. I can't wait to try
some out!"Joyce M.

"So many more recipes to go through and try out. I'm so
happy"-Deborah B.

"Thank-you. Already printed and added to my files"-Carol R.

"Thanks for the update! I love this book!" Lori L.

If you would like to order a copy of Raku Glazes: The
Ultimate Collection, please visit http://www.rakuglazes.com
You won't be disappointed.

* Kiln Building Fiber Fastening

I'm building a garbage can fiber kiln with 1-inch fiber. I
have some fiber buttons but should I use an adhesive, and
if so what would you recommend? And finally, what is your
thought on ITC 100 sprayed on to make the fiber more rigid?
Jeff G.

I have never used a fiber adhesive when building a fiber
kiln. I've used "buttons" or small kiln stilts. When
building a garbage can kiln, drill two small holes in the
sides at every location you want to place a button or
stilt. Then attach the button with a small piece of high-
fire wire. I've never had a problem with the fiber not
staying in place using this method.

As far as ITC, I've never used it, but I understand it
provides to basic benefits. It provided more insulation so
therefore it should take less fuel to fire the kiln and it
provides a protectant, which can prolong the life of the
fiber walls. So it can't hurt but it is definitely not
required.

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"It's all your fault! I was up all night reading "Raku
Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and
still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of
new insight. Thanks so much". - Elaine S.
http://www.rakusecrets.com
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* No Freeze Tank Valve

Have you or any of your readers had any experience with
the no freeze burner that is out? The valve is replaced
with one that has a rod that goes into the propane tank to
take the propane off the bottom instead of the top. Living
in Michigan, I have a hard time firing in the winter with
tanks freezing up so quickly. I wondered if the investment
in this burner would be worth it. Thanks for any input.

To be honest this was the first time I had heard of this
option, so I did a quick search on the Internet and found
the following site:
http://www.pottery-books.com/axner/equipment/kilnraku.php
It looks like an interesting option, but I probably
wouldn't do it (at least in my situation). I rotate
between 3 different 5-gallon tanks (which I also use on my
barbeque) and I would no longer be able to do this with the
special valve insert. The burner itself seems a little
expensive (I could buy 6 or 7 more 5 gallon tanks for this
price). Finally the special valve has to be added to each
tank by an authorized gas dealer (again more cost).

But it may be a good option if you have only one tank that
is dedicated to your Raku firings. It sounds like the tank
will not freeze regardless of the speed of firing or how
little is left in the tank which some people may be willing
to pay almost any amount to solve this problem.

* Click Away *

A short little video showing a Raku firing
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=1940701605940978980
&q=raku
The reduction is done in a sawdust-filled trashcan. I
believe I actually road by this pottery on my motorcycle
trip last summer.

My eBay Listings http://tinyurl.com/tn08
Just Raku Blog http://justraku.blogspot.com
Just Raku Logowear http://www.cafepress.com/justraku
Got Raku? http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Just Raku Archive http://www.JustRaku.com
Just Raku Article Archive
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justrakuarticles

* Workshops, Ads, etc. *

If you wish to no longer receive this newsletter send an
email to unsubscribe@garyrferguson.com with UNSUBSCRIBE in
the subject line.

Cafepress - Free $5.00

2005-12-20T23:22:00.000-07:00

A coupon for $5 off any purchase of $20 or more. Use the Cafepress coupon code of CAMELOXCART (valid until Dec 27, 2005).

This can be used on the New 2nd Edition of Raku Glazes: The Ultimate Collection at: http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku

Naked Raku Workshop in AZ March 2005

2005-12-10T07:51:00.000-07:00

Anne Carrel is holding a Naked Raku workshop in Oracle, Arizona in March 2005

Bio: Born in Fribourg, Switzerland. She l learned the Raku technique in 1991 from Violette Adjiman (France) and Naked Raku the following year under Hanneke Oort (Netherlands). She came to the U.S., traveling and networking with ceramic artists, and thereafter opened a studio in Arizona, where she teaches Naked Raku.

The dates of the next workshop are:
Saturday: March 18, 9:00 am to 4:00 Pm
Sunday: March 19, 9:00 am to 2:00 pm

Two-day workshop costs $85 per person
Limited to 12 people

If you would like information and to see images of naked raku go to my website:
www.nakedraku.com
To apply call Anne at: (520) 896-9558
Or E-mail: anne@nakedraku.com
Mail: September Studio
P.O. Box 823, Oracle, AZ 85623

Got Raku? in the News

2005-12-10T07:26:00.000-07:00

The following link is to an intereseting article about a Raku artist in Greenville South Carolina.
http://www.greenvilleonline.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20051207/CITYPEOPLE/512070334/1062
If you take a look at the shirt Bonnie is wearing in the picture you can just make out that it is a Got Raku? shirt.

Pretty cool!

Free Shipping ends Dec 6, 2005

2005-12-03T16:28:00.000-07:00

Free shipping on Cafepress orders of $50 or more. Now's the time to get your Raku Shirts or Books at:
http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
http://www.cafepress.com/rakusecrets
http://www.cafepress.com/justraku

Use coupon code FREESHIP at the time of checkout.

[Just Raku Newsletter #36 - Sunshine, Waxing, and Horsehair]

2005-11-30T22:06:00.000-07:00

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* While the Smoke Clears *

I want to start off by thanking everyone for the kind words
in regards to my wife's surgery. She is recovering fine,
slower than she would like, but without any complications.

I hope you survived the Thanksgiving Holiday (at least the
US readers). We had a total of 14 relatives at our house
again this year and made a serious dent in the 29 lb turkey
I prepared.

I'm really looking forward to Christmas this year as our
oldest son (3.5 years) is starting to understand the
concept of gifts, giving, and Santa (the threat of coal in
his stocking for Christmas will get him to behave for at
least a few minutes!) It's really exciting to experience
the holidays through "young" eyes again.

Well I hope your holiday season is great and you enjoy this
issue.

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at: editor@garyrferguson.com

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"I must thank you for all the great recipes. I was a bit
stuck for new recipes. I'll be here for thirty years
trying all these out." - Simon D. http://www.rakuglazes.com
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Sunshine on my Horsehair makes me happy?
(-- my apologies to John Denver)

A reader writes: "Do you know if Horse Hair pottery will
fade in the sun. I have several pieces at a gallery in
town and they have them set in the window that gets the
afternoon sun. The last time I was in the gallery and saw
the pieces I thought they are bleaching out. They are not
as marked as before. If so, will waxing them help and what
kind of wax does one use?"

Basically, strong direct sun on anything for a long period
of time is not good. Unlike our skin that gets darker in
the sun (at least before we peel) most other objects will
eventually fade.

Now how long this takes is based on many, many variables:
the object itself, the colorant involved, the strength of
the sun, the duration of exposure, humidity, etc.

So basically I would not recommend placing horsehair (or
normal Raku for that matter) pieces in direct sunlight for
long periods of time. They will definitely be affected.

As for coating or protecting them a wax, this may help
(just as is does on car paint), but I don't think
dramatically. In fact, depending on the wax used, the sun
exposure may cause a yellowing effect.

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"Our class fired again last night, and the instructor
followed your tips and voila. Boy do we have copper. Its
great knowing we can do it, and I really appreciate your
help. Thanks again!"-Shannon P. http://www.rakusecrets.com
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

* Glaze Quest

Hi Gary
Thanks for the ebook (http://www.rakuglazes.com) it looks
great. Have you heard of a glaze called JR metallic or matt
blue? I think it is a luster.
Thanks
Teresa H.

I have not run across a glaze by this name yet. That's not
to say the glaze is included in the ebook under another
name.

Any Just Raku readers have a recipe for a JR Metallic Raku
glaze that they would care to share? Let me know at
editor@garyrferguson.com

* N@ked Raku Books

Hi Gary.
I have just joined your newsletter and think its great to
have something just for Raku. I live in Australia and have
been potting for 25 years. I have dabbled in Raku on and
off over the years but just recently I have got a passion
for naked Raku. I would be really grateful if you could
advise me on what books to buy that covers naked Raku.
Yours
Sue S.

Sue:
One book is "Raku: A Practical Approach" by Stephen
Branfman (http://www.garyrferguson.com/branfman). The
revised edition apparently has an expanded section on N@ked
Raku (and other Raku alternatives). I have not seen this
edition yet, but if it is anything like the prior version
it will be very good.

~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-
Books, Music, Videos and that's just the start. Amazon
sells more than books! Help support this newsletter by
using this link: http://www.garyrferguson.com/amazon~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Air Compressor Crackle

Hey Gary,
I noticed in the last newsletter that someone was having
trouble with getting an even crackle on his or her pieces.
I have a little trick that I use on my white crackle pieces
and it works great! When I fire crackle pieces I have my
air compressor ready to go with my airbrush attached. When
the crackle pots come out of the kiln I set them on soft
bricks on top of a banding wheel and then spray them with
the air from the compressor. The crackling really takes
off! You can even control the crackle with a little
practice. Once the pots are sprayed with air I put them
into the reduction cans. This technique also works with
naked Raku too but you have to take care not to blow the
sacrificial slip/glaze completely off the pot! Hope this
helps with all you crackpots!
Peace,
Allyson M.

Thanks a bunch for the tip Allyson. You have provided a
great contribution as always. I would assume if you don't
have an air compressor you could you always just pump up an
empty garden sprayer and blow air that way.

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"It's all your fault! I was up all night reading "Raku
Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and
still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of
new insight. Thanks so much". - Elaine S.
http://www.rakusecrets.com
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Wax On, Wax Off

Ruth A. writes: "I have made my own paste wax from Bee's
wax and mineral oil. Use a double boiler or a can in a pot
of water works well. Melt the wax and add slightly more
mineral oil than wax and stir. Pour into wide mouth
container. I used a plastic tub. I use the wax on smoked
pieces. Burnish with a cloth. I made a smoke fired bird and
after year the smoke had come off since it was outside. So
I tried making another and waxing it. That works!"

Thanks Ruth. I would assume this works best with Horsehair
N@ked Raku pieces.

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Raku 2nd Edition - Tim Andrews
This new edition has been completely re-written and updated
with over 200 all new, full-color photos of beautiful Raku
pottery http://tinyurl.com/bt7fk
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* Dark Hawaiian Blue

Hi Gary:
I do Raku jewelry that and used the Hawaiian blue glaze
recipe, which I used on my bisque fired beads. I tried
one, two, and three coats and tried several firings between
1600F and 1850F degrees. One and two coats came out a very
dull blue and three coats a dull black. I even tried
dipping the beads in lacquer and still dull. Any
suggestions as to why they came out dull?
Donna R.

Well Donna, Hawaiian Blue is sometimes a challenging glaze
(who am I kidding - it is always challenging), especially
on small pieces, but I will try to provide some ideas.

Normally Hawaiian Blue is a matte glaze, so it should be
dull in texture. If you want more of a semi-gloss effect,
then it has to be fired hotter and/or longer. The 1850F
you mention was probably hot enough, but you didn't mention
how long you soaked it at that temperature. It might need
more time.

As far as the color goes, blue, black (lacking copper),
etc. This is usually a result of not enough reduction.
Heavy reduction of small pieces is very difficult to
achieve because they cool off so fast. You want to move the
beads from the kiln to the reduction chamber as fast as
possible and use the smallest reduction chamber you can,
such as a small can in a sand pit (not a 30 gallon garbage
can). This will reduce the volume of oxygen that needs to
be burned to create an reduction atmosphere.

Hope this helps.

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"It's all your fault! I was up all night reading "Raku
Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and
still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of
new insight. Thanks so much". - Elaine S.
http://www.rakusecrets.com
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Click Away *

Some very nice examples of N@ked Raku by Jan Lee
http://www.mudfire.com/jan-lee.htm

Copper Matte & N@ked Raku by Dan Leonette
http://www.leonette.com/english/om_leonette.htm

* Workshops, Ads, etc. *

Raku workshop that covers: Hand building, Raku glazing,
Firing and Reducing flashing glazes and the super secret of
crackle glazes. You will leave with instructions on how to
build you own Raku kiln, glaze recipes and your finished
hand-built piece. Notes on proper firing for all 7 glazes
we use. Workshops include all your meals and lodging. Cost
is $750 for 5 days and $550 for three days. Three-day
workshops do not include hand building project, just
intense glazing and firing. The only dates not available at
this time are: Dec 10th. thru Jan. 3rd. Feb. 5th.-10th.,
March 1st. thru the 10th. and April 10th.- 20th. (we
have workshops and a vacation planned on these dates).
If you are flying in we are 2 1/2 hour from Las Vegas and
will pick you up. We are in southern Utah overlooking Zion
National Park. For more info
http://www.rakufountains.com/ebayindex.html

If you wish to no longer receive this newsletter send an
email to unsubscribe@garyrferguson.com with UNSUBSCRIBE in
the subject line.

Photographing Your Work

2005-10-19T20:00:00.000-06:00

The following is a really good article about how to photograph your work which is invaluable for taking slides for juried shows or presenting your work online.
http://www.claytimes.com/PhotographingWork.htm

[Just Raku Newsletter #35 - Mr. Mom and Getting Crackle]

2005-10-08T23:59:00.000-06:00

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* While the Smoke Clears *

So what has happened over the last few weeks? WAY TOO
MUCH!!!

First my wife had hernia surgery. I guess having two kids
at 7+ pounds and only being 5'2" and 110 pounds is a little
hard on the body. Anyway, the surgery went well and she is
recovering great, the kicker is she is not supposed to lift
anything heavier than 5 lbs for the next 8 weeks and was
down in bed for the first two weeks.

These were the Mr. Mom weeks!

I got to take care of Connor and Trevor the two kids (now
1.5 and 3.5), Lollipop the new puppy (a half Australian
Shepard and half Pomeranian - don't ask), Gina the
bedridden wife, the house work, the yard work, the cooking,
and even my job work. So guess what? The newsletter is
late.

This was not a real "fun" time - but I did loose 7 pounds
running after everyone so I think I have discovered a new
diet plan!

She is now up and around pretty good, and her father is
coming over each day to help with the kids while I'm at
work. He loves the nickname I gave him of "Mr. Nanny-man."

I've also been having huge issues with my web hosting
service and finally bit the bullet and switched to another
service that seems to be working great. Hopefully I didn't
miss too many emails, but if you expected something from me
and haven't heard yet try again.

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at: editor@garyrferguson.com

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"I must thank you for all the great recipes. I was a bit
stuck for new recipes. I'll be here for thirty years
trying all these out." - Simon D. http://www.rakuglazes.com
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* To Crackle or Not To Crackle

A reader had the following question:

Pots I fired with a clear glaze did not get any black
crackle on the surface of the pot that sat on the
combustibles. The top of the pot, which was more exposed to
the air, got good large crackle. We fire to 1750F-1800F
and reduce in a galvanized garbage can with a layer of
sawdust in the bottom and shredded newspaper on top of that
and were firing on a hot and humid day. Can you give
me some idea of why this might be happening? Too much
newspaper? Not enough newspaper? Use sawdust only? Help!

Well I do have some thoughts and suggestions. There are
two factors to achieving "good" crackle. First the glaze
has to craze create all those spider web like cracks, and
second, all those cracks need to be "colored"

To achieve crazing, the glaze has to shrink slightly
faster/more than the clay body. This can be due to the
thickness of the glaze, the thickness of the clay body, the
firing temperature or how quickly it is cooled, etc. In
this example the bottom of the piece could have thicker
walls than at the top of the piece and hence cool slower
and craze less. You could try allowing the piece to cool
in the air more before you place it in the reduction
chamber. Listen for the pinging sound.

To color the cracks, you need smoke to get in there and
stain the clay. If the piece is sitting in a bed of
sawdust, it may not be allowing smoke to get to this area
of the piece. You might try placing sheets of newspaper in
the bottom of your can and then a brick or two on top of
the paper. Then when you place your piece in the reduction
can on the bricks it will be easy for the smoke to reach
the bottom of the piece.

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"Our class fired again last night, and the instructor
followed your tips and voila. Boy do we have copper. Its
great knowing we can do it, and I really appreciate your
help. Thanks again!"-Shannon P. http://www.rakusecrets.com
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

* Hutchens Copper Matt

Do you have a recipe for Hutchinson's Raku glaze? I saw
this on a friend's pot (Raku) the other day and was
impressed. She didn't seem keen to give me the recipe! I
don't know if she had the name right but the glaze was dark
and quite gold and lustrous. Can you help?

From my Raku Glazes eBook (http://www.rakuglazes.com) I
found:

Hutchens Copper Matt
Gerstley Borate 80
Nepheline Syenite 20
Bone Ash 20
Cobalt Carbonate 3
Copper Carbonate 7

The notes state to apply thin. I would assume a heavy
reduction to achieve copper/gold colors.

* Favorite Gerstley Borate Substitute

I love the Raku Glazes ebook (http://www.rakuglazes.com).
I've got a lifetime of discovery ahead of me! What is your
favorite substitute for Gerstley Borate??

To be honest I have not done a lot of Gerstley Borate
substitutions yet, but I have had decent results with
Laguna Borate and Frit 3134. It will partially depend on
the amount of Gerstley Borate that is in the glaze on how
well a simple substitute will work.

* Wax is not just for Ears

Ok, I realize this is a gross title, but it is getting
close to Halloween.

A reader writes: "I seem to remember reading a "Just Raku"
article awhile back that mentioned something about not
glazing a piece and waxing it afterwards for a beautiful
shiny black. Did I dream this up? If not, what kinds of
wax do you use? Seems like I remember Minwax? Thanks for
any help you can give me on this."

I could not find a past article on this exact topic, but
there are several uses for wax in the Raku process.

Using wax as a resist for a design element:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justrakuarticles/articles/resi
sting_temptation_glaze.htm

You can also use wax to coat the inside of a piece to make
it watertight - although a water sealer might work better.

Finally you can use wax to cover a horsehair Raku piece
which can give it a shiny, burnished look. This technique
sounds similar to what you are after. The black bare clay
or a Raku piece could be coated with wax to give the shiny
appearance you mention.

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"It's all your fault! I was up all night reading "Raku
Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and
still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of
new insight. Thanks so much". - Elaine S.
http://www.rakusecrets.com
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Growing Your Comfort Zone

Hello Gary,
I really like your ebooks and also the newsletter. I have
a lot of questions about glazes, recipes, etc and I thought
it would save a lot of time if I could access back issues
of your newsletter. My questions are probably common ones
that you may have already answered. Your glaze book nspired
me to try mixing my own glazes, something I never thought I
would do on my own.
Thanks, look forward to hearing from you.
Joe L.

Thanks Joe:
I'm glad you are in uncharted territory. There is a common
belief that the only time we "grow" is when we experience
something outside our comfort zone, which to me is always
exciting.

For you and everyone else, the back issues can be found at:
http://www.justraku.com

I'm also in the process creating stand-alone pages for many
of the articles from the back issues. These can be found
at: http://www.garyrferguson.com/justrakuarticles/

Oh, yeah. The "growth" ebooks are here:
http://www.rakusecrets.com
http://www.rakuglazes.com

* Glaze Recipe Measurements

On your web site you have listings for glazes. Are they
all measured by cup or partial cup measurements? I see
some with the cup reference and some without.

The answer to this can be found in the following two back
issues of Just Raku:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku22.htm
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku23.htm

* Mystery Glaze Revealed?

Last issue I posted a Mystery Glaze that a reader was
trying to recreate (see:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justrakuarticles/misc/zion_mys
tery_glaze.htm

I received the following replies:

I have a recipe that is called blue velvet that gives this
coloration. Or it might be tomato red. From the picture it
looks like it has a little more shine to it than the blue
velvet and tomato red has some gold in it but it is close.
Love your newsletter and I bought your on-line book.
Theresa L. Tx

The surface almost looks too smooth to be Hawaiian Blue. It
might be on of those 80%+ Copper Oxide glazes. I have some
recipes, but don't think they would be an exact match. If
it is a copper ox glaze, chances are good it will be black
and velvety looking in the bucket.
Denise C.

Looks like copper sand
Ray

So that's what we have so far:
Blue Velvet
Tomato Red
80% Copper Oxide
Copper Sand

And I'm sure you know these are all in
http://www.rakuglazes.com

Hopefully that helps

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"It's all your fault! I was up all night reading "Raku
Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and
still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of
new insight. Thanks so much". - Elaine S.
http://www.rakusecrets.com
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Click Away *

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
Here is an easy (and free) way to support this newsletter.
Open a new eBay account by clicking on the link below and
select "register" at the top of the screen. Then look for a
deal and bid. Your support is greatly appreciated!
http://www.qksrv.net/click-411938-2202639
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* Workshops, Ads, etc. *

N@ked Raku Workshop, From Slip to Fire with Anne Carrel in
Oracle Arizona
October 22 and 23rd. Two-day workshop costs $85 per person
or $75 for registrations before 10/01/05. Limited to 12
people. If you would like to see images of N@ked Raku go
to: www.nakedraku.com. For additional information contact:
Anne Carrel
1470 W. American Ave
P.O. Box 823
Oracle , AZ 85623
Studio: (520) 896-9558
cell: (520) 603-8174
Or email : anne@nakedraku.com

Raku workshop that covers: Hand building, Raku glazing,
Firing and Reducing flashing glazes and the super secret of
crackle glazes. You will leave with instructions on how to
build you own Raku kiln, glaze recipes and your finished
hand-built piece. Notes on proper firing for all 7 glazes
we use. Workshops include all your meals and lodging. Cost
is $750 for 5 days and $550 for three days. Three day
workshops do not include hand building project, just
intense glazing and firing. The only dates not available at
this time are: Dec 10th. thru Jan. 3rd. Feb. 5th.-10th.,
March 1st. thru the 10th. and April 10th.- 20th. (we
have workshops and a vacation planned on these dates).
If you are flying in we are 2 1/2 hour from Las Vegas and
will pick you up. We are in southern Utah overlooking Zion
National Park. For more info
http://www.rakufountains.com/ebayindex.html

If you wish to no longer receive this newsletter send an
email to unsubscribe@garyrferguson.com with UNSUBSCRIBE in
the subject line.

Even Raku Artists Play Poker

2005-10-03T20:33:00.000-06:00

I have registered to play in the
Online Poker Blogger Championship!

This event is powered by PokerStars.

Registration code: 7890385

[Just Raku Issue #34 Mystery Glaze Quest]

2005-08-22T23:47:00.000-06:00

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* While the Smoke Clears *

I just had a wonderful adventure. Late last year I bought
a new motorcycle and me and a buddy took an interesting
two-day trip a couple weeks ago.

We belong to a club that has an Idaho Tour program this
year. What this entails is visiting 25 of 30 pre-selected
small towns in Idaho and collecting pictures of you, your
bike, and the road sign. It is fun and a great excuse to
be on the bike.

Well I plotted a trip for Eastern Idaho to visit about 8 of
the 25 needed cities. This involved 2 days, about 970
miles, and lots of fun. I saw parts of Idaho that I'd never
seen before (and I've lived here for 37 years).

Anyway, I wrote an interesting "Road Tales" summary you can
read at: http://tinyurl.com/7gnl7 By the way, "Watch for
Stock" is not just a sign.

Overall it was a great chance to clear my head and plenty
of time to think of creative things to do with pottery.

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at: editor@garyrferguson.com

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
"I must thank you for all the great recipes. I was a bit
stuck for new recipes. I'll be here for thirty years
trying all these out." - Simon D. http://www.rakuglazes.com
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* Steven Branfman Interview *

I have been a fan of Branfman's books and pottery for many
years. He likes to do a lot with textures such as heavily
scoring the piece, which can greatly affect how the glaze
appears on the final piece.

There was a phone interview conducted a while back and the
transcript in provided at the following link.
http://www.vasefinder.com/steven.branfman.html In addition
to his insight on several areas of pottery and Raku, there
are some wonderful pictures of his work.

Hope you enjoy the link.

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"Our class fired again last night, and the instructor
followed your tips and voila. Boy do we have copper. Its
great knowing we can do it, and I really appreciate your
help. Thanks again!"-Shannon P. http://www.rakusecrets.com
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* Bowl Flashing *

I had a question this month from a subscriber in Nebraska
that is having trouble with firing bowls. Particularly
getting nice flashing on the inside of the bowl.
Apparently he is able to achieve nice flashing on the
outside, but not on the inside.

Not knowing any more of the particulars of what he is doing
(or not doing) I can't provide an exact answer, but I can
provide some general thoughts on how to successfully fire
Raku bowls.

First is the glaze factor. How the piece is glazed can
affect the result. If you are brushing or spraying the
glaze you are probably getting about the same thickness of
glaze on the inside as you do the outside, but if you are
dipping and pouring, you are likely applying more glaze on
the inside due to the basic process. The inside will
easily hold more glaze than the outside. So be careful how
you are glazing.

Second is the firing factor. The inside of a bowl
(assuming it is being fired right-side-up) will heat a
little slower than the outside of a bowl, especially in a
really fast firing. So you can either fire slower or fire
the bowl on its edge like you would a plate to help the
inside glaze mature at the same time as the outside glaze.

Third is the reduction factor. If you place the bowl in a
nest of paper or leaves, the outside will be heavily
reduced compared to the inside. To increase the reduction
on the in side, make sure you throw a handful of reduction
materials inside the bowl or place the bowl in the
reductions materials upside down. This should create a
heavy reduction and increase the likelihood of flashing.

* Garbage Can Kiln Done? *

Another reader asked how to tell if you need to replace a
garbage can kiln. Hers is starting to rust and she is
concerned it is time to build a new one.

Basically the important part of your Raku kiln is the
lining, which in most cases is ceramic fiber. This is what
holds the heat in the kiln and protects external stuff from
the heat. As long as this is in good shape (no holes, no
extreme sagging, doesn't fall off during firing, etc.) You
are probably in good shape.

Some Raku kilns are built using just a shell of expanded
metal (not solid like a garbage can) because all that is
needed is something to hold the ceramic fiber in place.

So if your rusted can is holding the ceramic fiber in place
and your ceramic fiber is in good shape, I would not worry
about a new kiln yet.

* 100% Raku Glaze *

A common question I get all the time is "What units are
your glazes in?" This was discussed in a prior issue of
Just Raku http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku22.htm
I also cover it extensive in my Raku Glazes eBook
http://www.rakuglazes.com

But what came up this month was a question in regards to
why the total of the glaze ingredients don't add to 100%?
That is a little different.

Most glazes are normalized in that the total of the non-
colorant ingredients total 100% and then the colorants are
added in addition to this. This is done to make x-times
batches easier to calculate.

But there is no hard and fast rule that says a glaze has to
be normalized to 100%. So take them as they come and try
what sounds good.

* More Naked Raku

I had several people respond to the Naked Raku article in
last month's issue. It appears there is a common problem
getting the correct formula for a slip that will stay on
during the firing, yet can still be removed fairly easily
after firing.

In general the stickiness of the slip will be due to the
amount of Alumina (probably in the form of Alumina Hydrate)
that is in the slip. The more you have, the better the slip
will stay on, but the harder it will be to remove. That
makes logic sense. So the challenge is to fine a happy
medium, which can be influenced by other things, such as:
What clay you are using
What temperature you bisque to
Are you using burnished pieces?
Do you use a glaze over the slip?
How thick you apply the slip
How fast/hot you fire

One technique that was shared was to slip the piece, glaze
the piece, then before dries thoroughly, fire to about 600F
to set the glaze. This apparently helps keep the slip on.

But in contrast, I had another reader state they had
problems with pieces cracking if they fired the piece
before the slip thoroughly dried. The thought was the
bisque piece was absorbing the water from the slip and then
cracking during firing. This again would be due to some of
the points listed above.

There were a couple slip recipe shared:

Slip A
Fire Clay 5 parts
EPK 3 parts
Alumina Hydrate 1-2 parts

Slip B (apply at the consistency of cake mix)
Soldate 60 Clay

Either can be covered with a layer of clear glaze.

So play around with your pieces and how you fire to see
what works best for you. You could even consider taking a
workshop (there are several listed at the end of the
newsletter).

* Mystery Glaze Quest *

I have a reader that is desperately trying to recreate a
glaze that they have fired several pieces with. It does
look somewhat like what I get when using Hawaiian Copper
Blue (sometimes), but I invite any readers to take a look
at the samples here: http://tinyurl.com/d634g and let me
know what you think. Any insight would be greatly
appreciated.

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"It's all your fault! I was up all night reading "Raku
Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and
still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of
new insight. Thanks so much". - Elaine S.
http://www.rakusecrets.com
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Click Away *

* Workshops, Ads, etc. *

Bracker's Good Earth Clays, Inc. will be hosting a 2-day
workshop with Bob Piepenburg on October 8th & 9th 2005. For
more information about the workshop or to sign up, go to
http://www.brackers.com/store/results_detail.cfm?cat=645&pr
odid=WKPIE for information about lodging for the workshop
go to http://www.brackers.com/workshops.cfm
Bracker's Good Earth Clays, Inc.
1831 E 1450 Road
Lawrence, KS 66044
TOLL FREE: 1-888-822-1982
FAX: 785-841-8142
http://www.brackers.com

Raku workshop that covers: Hand building, Raku glazing,
Firing and Reducing flashing glazes and the super secret of
crackle glazes. You will leave with instructions on how to
build you own Raku kiln, glaze recipes and your finished
hand-built piece. Notes on proper firing for all 7 glazes
we use. Workshops include all your meals and lodging. Cost
is $750 for 5 days and $550 for three days. Three day
workshops do not include hand building project, just
intense glazing and firing. The only dates not available at
this time are: Dec 10th. thru Jan. 3rd. Feb. 5th.-10th.,
March 1st. thru the 10th. and April 10th.- 20th. (we
have workshops and a vacation planned on these dates).
If you are flying in we are 2 1/2 hour from Las Vegas and
will pick you up. We are in southern Utah overlooking Zion
National Park. For more info
http://www.rakufountains.com/ebayindex.html

If you wish to no longer receive this newsletter send an
email to unsubscribe@garyrferguson.com with UNSUBSCRIBE in
the subject line.

Just Raku Article Archive

2005-08-17T22:28:00.000-06:00

I have started archiving the articles out of the past issues of the Just Raku Newsletter. This may make it easier to find past information. The Archive includes articles, tips, question/answer, glazes, book reviews, and workshops.
Just Raku Article Archive

[Just Raku Issue #33 - Yes I know it is August]

2005-08-08T23:31:00.000-06:00

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* While the Smoke Clears *

I woke up sick as a dog on my Birthday

No this was not due to heavy partying the night before but
what I had been doing for the week prior.

I starting building a shed in my back yard, and the weather
has been really hot here lately (100F+). I was being real
careful about drinking water and using sunscreen so I
thought I was ok, but apparently not.

What I got was Heat Exhaustion due to by body sweating out
too many electrolytes that were not replaced with just
water.

Once I figured this out I started pounding Gatorade and
finally started feeling better after about the 3rd day.

So the moral of the story is, if you are out in the heat,
like say standing around an 1800F kiln on a 100F day, you
want to make sure you are drinking enough liquids that also
contain electrolytes.

I don't want any sick Just Raku-ers out there.

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at: editor@garyrferguson.com

* Food Safe Raku *

In your opinion do you think that toothpick holders that
have been Raku-fired would be safe enough? I don't think
the wood would be able to transfer any "bad stuff" but I
wanted your opinion

I would think that would be pretty safe. You aren't
cooking in the Raku piece you mentioned, or holding
anything acidic. I'm also assuming you are not using any
lead based glazes.

If you really wanted to be safe you could coat the inside
with any common sealer.

Some other "functional" Raku ideas are napkin rings,
jewelry dishes, and utensil holders.

* Your Slip Is Showing *

I would appreciate your help! Do you have any good recipes
for a bisque ware slip used for Naked Raku. All my recipes
crack off and don't don't stay on long enough for naked
effects.

--

This is really dependent upon what clay you are using and
what slip recipe you are using and how "compatible" the two
are together.

If the clay is shrinking a lot more than the slip (or vice
versa) you may experience problems with the slip staying on
the piece.

A couple of things to try:
- Apply the slip thicker
- Replace any clay in the slip with the bisque clay
- Apply a thin layer of clear glaze over the slip

Hope this helps

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Raku: A Practical Approach by Steven Branfman
The "nuts and bolts" how-to book of Raku
Order 30% off at: http://www.garyrferguson.com/branfman~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

* What is ...

I have a question. I am from Spain and I need no know what
is Gerstley Borate in my language?

This is a chemical that is very common in Raku glaze that
is quickly becoming unavailable in many areas of the world.
You can read the history of Gerstley Borate and possible
substitutions at http://www.gerstleyborate.com

Hope this helps.

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Books, Music, Videos and that's just the start. Amazon
sells more than books! Help support this newsletter by
using this link: http://www.garyrferguson.com/amazon
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* New Raku Book

Tim Andrews has done it again!

If you remember, a while back I recommended the book "Raku"
by Tim Andrews, but the problem it was out of print and
used copies were very rare.

Raku artists hold on to this book.

Well Tim has solved this dilemma. He has published Raku 2nd
Edition http://tinyurl.com/bt7fk but don't think this is
just a mere cover change. It is almost a completely
different book. So if you bought the first edition, you
will enjoy the 2nd edition even more.

There are more techniques discussed and more artist
profiles and the section I love the best, the gallery
section is loaded with beautiful examples of Raku.

So whether you have the first edition or not, you will
definitely enjoy the second edition of Raku by Tim Andrews.
http://tinyurl.com/bt7fk

This hard cover book can ordered via the link:
http://tinyurl.com/bt7fk for 34% off. Add any other
discounted book to your order and get free shipping.

What a deal!

It is not too early to get yourself a Christmas present! Go
to http://tinyurl.com/bt7fk before they are on back order.

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"It's all your fault.......I was up all night reading "Raku
Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and
still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of
new insight. Thanks so much". - Elaine S.
http://www.rakusecrets.com
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Click Away *

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"I must thank you for all the great recipes. I was a bit
stuck for new recipes. I'll be here for thirty years
trying all these out." - Simon D. http://www.rakuglazes.com
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

* Workshops, Ads, etc. *

Naked Raku Workshop, From Slip to Fire with Anne Carrel in
Oracle Arizona
October 22 and 23rd. Two-day workshop costs $85 per person
or $75 for registrations before 10/01/05. Limited to 12
people. If you would like to see images of Naked Raku go
to: www.nakedraku.com. For additional information contact:
Anne Carrel
1470 W. American Ave
P.O. Box 823
Oracle , AZ 85623
Studio: (520) 896-9558
cell: (520) 603-8174
Or email : anne@nakedraku.com

Raku workshop that covers: Hand building, Raku glazing,
Firing and Reducing flashing glazes and the super secret of
crackle glazes. You will leave with instructions on how to
build you own Raku kiln, glaze recipes and your finished
hand-built piece. Notes on proper firing for all 7 glazes
we use. Workshops include all your meals and lodging. Cost
is $750 for 5 days and $550 for three days. Three day
workshops do not include hand building project, just
intense glazing and firing. The only dates not available at
this time are: Dec 10th. thru Jan. 3rd. Feb. 5th.-10th.,
March 1st. thru the 10th. and April 10th.- 20th. (we
have workshops and a vacation planned on these dates).
If you are flying in we are 2 1/2 hour from Las Vegas and
will pick you up. We are in southern Utah overlooking Zion
National Park. For more info
http://www.rakufountains.com/ebayindex.html

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Raku: Investigations Into Fire by David Jones
Order 30% off at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5x
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If you wish to no longer receive this newsletter send an
email to unsubscribe@garyrferguson.com with UNSUBSCRIBE in
the subject line.

[Just Raku Issue #32 - June 2005]

2005-06-30T23:24:00.000-06:00

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* While the Smoke Clears *

Hello again.

Well I almost made it. I almost got the June issue out
during June. I'll try to be better for the July issue, but
it will be tough as I have several projects on my plate
right now.

I'm pretty excited. If you have a copy of the new Axner
Pottery catalog, take a look in the books section and
you'll see my Raku Glazes and Raku Secrets books are now
available. If you don't have it handy you can see them on
line at: http://www.pottery-books.com/axner/books/p617.php
and: http://www.pottery-books.com/axner/books/p615.php

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at: editor@garyrferguson.com

* Icy Raku Sweet Spot *
by Michael H.

I have noticed several requests for help that all stem from
applying glazes too heavy, underfiring, or overfiring. I
thought I would share a visual tip.

First, I fire in a 55 gallon barrel lined with fiber, one
peep hole, two shelves, and I use a single Raku burner from
Ward Burners, a fairly basic setup. I fire multiple pieces
with different glazes, all of which mature at different
points. I use no pyrometers or cones; it is all done by eye
(don't get too close to the peep hole or you'll loose your
eyebrows - gotta buy one of those face shields some day).

What you need to do is really observe how the glazes behave
as they are heating, knowing the stages each glaze goes
through on the clay body helps identify the perfect
maturity of the firing.

Some glazes bubble up, pop, pit, etc., and then seem to
flow together. Others will begin to change colors and go
from matt to shiny. Others will begin to run. What you are
looking for can best be described as "seeing the sun
reflecting in melted water on the surface of a frozen
pond." When you see just that sheen (the "Raku sweet spot")
the glaze is mature and ready to be plucked from the fire
and put into reduction.

For those of you in the "hot" areas that never see iced
ponds take a cake pan and freeze a block of ice. Take it
from the freezer and set it in the sun. Come back in about
1/2 hour and position yourself so that the sun reflects on
the water - that's what you are looking for.

Try it before you start firing next time.

* Stop Cracking Slabs *

My challenge at this time is I'm loosing about a third of
my bowls. I make large, irregular slab bowls and lots
of them are breaking. I don't know if I'm loosing them in
the kiln or the reduction but too many of them crack. Do
you have any ideas for a fix?

Libby K.

I do have a few thoughts and suggestions that may help.

First, make sure you are wedging you clay really well
before you start your slab work. You might want to even
try wedging in some Kyanite. Kyanite is the "miracle"
component to make almost any clay Raku worthy.

You may also want to Raku fire a little slower, especially
if the bowls are large so the temperature difference from
top to bottom or from one side to the other is not very
great.

You may also want to fire them standing on edge. This can
reduce the stress and also make them easier to remove from
the kiln with tongs later.

Finally I would leave them in the reduction chamber for 30+
minutes and then if you finish cooling with water make sure
the whole piece is quenched at the same time, again so one
part of the piece is not cooling faster than another.

Hope this helps.

* Raku Bisquing *

Is it possible, and reasonable, to do bisque firings in a
Raku kiln.

Brad F.

It definitely is possible. You just want to try an follow
a normal bisque firing schedule - low and slow for several
hours and then a slow climb to the final bisque temperature
and then a slow cooling period.

~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-
Books, Music, Videos and that's just the start. Amazon
sells more than books! Help support this newsletter by
using this link: http://www.garyrferguson.com/amazon
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Raku Beading Glaze *

Two weeks ago, I attended a pottery sale at the Community
Center here. One of the artists had on display some of her
Raku work. Several of her pieces had a Raku glaze on it
that seemed to bead all over the work. Have you ever seen
or heard of such a glaze, my wife wanted to try it out, but
was a little shy to ask the potter if she would share the
recipe.

Ron

There are two "Beads" recipes in my Raku Glazes ebook
http://www.rakuglazes.com, which are copied below. I have
not tried either of these recipes yet, but they seem to
indicate what you are after. Let me know what results you
get.

Beads

Magnesium Carbonate 31.25
Borax 25
Gerstley borate 31.25
Flint 6.25
Zircopax 6.25

Glass Bead Raku
Gerstley Borate 50
Borax 40
Flint 10
Magnesium Carbonate 50
Zircopax 10

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"Bought your book - great compendium!"
http://www.rakuglazes.com
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* Raku & Alcohol (no not Booze) *

I recently went to an art festival where a Raku artist
Bruce Odell was doing a Raku demonstration, which was cool,
and different from any I've seen. His pots had clear
crackle and a copper luster glaze. When he took it out of
the kiln. He left it in the open air for a few minutes to
get the clear crackle process started, then he sprayed a
mixture of what he said was alcohol, corn oil, and water on
the pot to somehow initiate the copper coloration process.
He had a tub of coarse sawdust which he made a hole it then
put the pot in it and covered it up to the hole in the top
and after a few minutes of full reduction he started moving
around the sawdust and exposing parts of the pot to air to
"selectively" paint with the copper achieving whatever
color he wanted wherever he wanted. I've never seen anyone
exercise this type of control over the reduction and copper
coloration process.

I recently bought some denatured alcohol that I saw in an
explanation of what Charlie Riggs used in his copper matt
reduction process. So, I have assumed that Bruce Odell was
using denatured alcohol in his mix but I don't know
percentages of the mixture. I'm a little hesitant to just
mix some denatured alcohol, corn oil and water in whatever
amount and spray a red hot Raku pot with it. I'd like to
continue to live for a while yet. You wouldn't happen to
have heard of this and know what the mix would be for this?

Was thinking of trying this with the Copper Luster II
recipe from your glaze recipe ebook since it calls for
sawdust reduction.

Have any ideas on this technique?

PS. Here is a link describing Charlie Rigg's Technique:
http://www.potters.org/subject15943.htm

Regards,
Brian D.

I have not actually used alcohol in my reduction process
yet,but I have talked to a couple of potters that have. It
is my understanding they used just the alcohol in a sprayer
and this created the reduction process. I would imagine
that mixing the alcohol, water, and oil together would add
to the variability because I don't think these mix well
together and would have different impacts on the reduction
process.

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Raku Pottery by Robert Piepenburg The must have "Bible" of
Raku http://www.garyrferguson.com/piepenburg
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* Click Away *

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Raku John Mathieson http://tinyurl.com/3f5yh
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* Workshops, Ads, etc. *

Please let me know of any Raku workshops in your area.

If you wish to no longer receive this newsletter send an
email to unsubscribe@garyrferguson.com with UNSUBSCRIBE in
the subject line.

Online Glaze Analysis Program

2005-06-10T08:18:00.000-06:00

Here a simple, handy free online program that will allow you to enter the chemicals in a glaze and then display the chemical proportions.

http://sonic.net/~wang/interglaze.html

Enjoy!

[Just Raku] Latest Issue Online

2005-06-08T23:21:00.000-06:00

Just a quick note.

In case you missed the Latest Issue of the Just Raku
Newsletter or if it never reached your inbox, you can view
it on-line at: http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku31.htm

The Next issue will be sent soon.

Until then...

Gary Ferguson
Clay Artist
Nampa, ID 83687

Raku Secrets eBook http://www.rakusecrets.com
Paper version at http://www.cafepress.com/rakusecrets
Raku Glazes eBook http://www.rakuglazes.com
Paper version at http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Got Raku? http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Just Raku Blog http://justraku.blogspot.com

[Just Raku Issue #31 - May 2005]

2005-06-02T21:49:00.000-06:00

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* While the Smoke Clears *

Yeah, I know. It's not May any more. Yes, this newsletter
is WAY late, but I figure better late than never, right?

I've changed the format of the newsletter a little bit,
which I think will help me get the issues out a little
easier and faster. Plus you should be able to tell what's
in each issue a little easier as well. Let me know what you
think.

One thing I wanted to make sure and tell you is CafePress
is having a sale. You get $10 off any order of $30 or more
until Jun 14, 2005. So hurry! Just use coupon code GRDAD05
(that is a zero-five) during checkout at any of my stores:

Just Raku Logowear http://www.cafepress.com/justraku
Got Raku http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Raku Secrets http://www.cafepress.com/rakusecrets

I appreciate your support plus you get to save some coin.

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at:
editor@garyrferguson.com

Gary R. Ferguson
- Raku Artist
pottery@garyrferguson.com

* Fading Glazes Feedback *

Chris R. had the following feedback on the issue of fading
colors of some Raku Glazes.
---
Tom Buck in Ceramic Review Issue #159, May/June 1996, on
which the following is based, discussed the question of
"fading" glazes in an article.

The rainbow colors on a copper-matt pot are caused by
firstly reducing the metal oxides in the glaze back to
metal and, secondly, allowing that shiny metal surface to
oxidize slightly, which produces the light interference
that gives us the color effect we seek.

If the exposed metal surface is not protected, then it will
be subject to further oxidation - in the case of copper, it
may even oxidize all the way back to black copper oxide, as
your contributor has seen.

In other Raku glazes, the overall result is a porous ultra-
thin layer of colored glass on or near the glaze surface
whose complexes are open to attack by airborne oxygen,
moisture, and sulfur compounds. Put simply, the reduced
glaze is too porous and/or too easily affected by the
environment.

The original Raku glaze cut-and-try approach led to this
problem, since good glass does not come from impure calcium
borate (Colemanite/ Gerstley borate) and/or hydrated sodium
borate (borax). Neither one of these borate materials by
itself, nor any combination of the two together, will form
a long-lasting surface. Also, it takes more than 20%
Nepheline Syenite to provide enough silica and Alumina to
make the glaze durable.

A look at the Seger formulas for most Raku glazes shows why
they may change. They often lack sufficient silica (quartz,
flint or, chemically, silicon oxide, SiO2) to form a
durable glass. Many are also deficient in alumina (aluminum
oxide, Al2O3), which toughens glass and helps to seal the
glass surface.

Even Branfman's book http://www.garyrferguson.com/branfman
gives the same "80/20" borate glaze recipes of the 1960s
(with minor changes) although, to his credit, he also lists
newer balanced glazes that use frits in their mix (both
borate and alkaline frits).

So what is the answer to the fading problem? Seal the
glaze, either by using a varnish of some sort (but keep it
out of sunlight) or by making the glaze a viable glass by a
combination of intelligent alteration of the glaze
chemistry and LOTS of testing. Glaze chemistry is
fascinating and, once the initial concepts are grasped, not
too difficult to understand. Learn about it now. You'll
have to when the Gerstley Borate runs out anyway!
---
So it really boils down to the fact a copper matte glaze is
not "glass" enough to maintain the colors for extended
periods of time.

* Getting That Copper Matte Color *

How do I get "that" copper matte color! I get this
question all the time, like the following:
---
I live in Portland and went to the big Ceramic show last
weekend at the Expo Center. I was checking out this Raku
booth and I really liked the glaze they used. I asked them
what is was, and he said it was copper sand with some or
all of the cobalt taken out and more copper added. I'd
love to get that recipe. I'm sending you a few pics of
another local artist who does the exact same glaze. It has
lots of magentas and purples and blues, and isn't glossy -
more like satin. Maybe you can tell me what it is if you
recognize it. I know they reduce in pine needles, which I
can't find any right now. Hope you can help me. Thanks in
advance!
---
Unfortunately, I'm never much help in these cases because
one thing I have learned about Copper Matte glazes, is it
is not so much the glaze formula as it is the application,
the firing process, and/or the reduction technique. The
exact same glaze can look wildly different depending on the
thickness of the glaze application, how it is fired, and
how it is reduced. Even if you knew all these, you will
likely still not get the same result every time. No potter
ever does.

So my recommendation is to try a couple of glazes either
from my website (http://www.garyrferguson.com/rakuglaz.htm)
or my ebook (http://www.rakuglazes.com) with various
techniques and see what you get and take good notes as to
what you do which may help you with future firings.

* Paragon FAQ Document *

Paragon has a 71-page Microsoft Word document of frequently
asked questions (FAQ) on electric kilns. There appears to
be many other useful documents on this site as well.
http://www.paragonweb.com/catalog.cfm?type=manuals

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Amazon sells more than books! Help support this newsletter
by using the following link:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/amazon
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* Naked Raku Pictures *

Here are some wonderful pictures of Naked Raku, both the
process and the finished product.
http://www.fromthepines.net/wally/

* Vanadium Stain vs. Vanadium Pentoxide *

I've had some question to the reference to Vanadium Stain
for the Yellow Crackle on my website and whether this is
the same as Vanadium Pentoxide.

The recipe is as follows:

Yellow crackle

Gerstley Borate 80
Cornwall stone 20
Vanadium stain 3-6

I do believe Vanadium Stain is different that Vanadium
Pentoxide. They are listed as different chemicals for
example on the following pottery supply website:
http://www.milehiceramics.com/glaze_chemical_prices.htm

The formula for Vanadium Pentoxide is V2O5 and the Vanadium
Stain is a Mason stain that is a combination of Vanadium
Pentoxide and Tin. So I would assume you could use
Vanadium Pentoxide and some Tin Oxide in place of Vanadium
Stain.

Heck, it is Raku give it a shot!

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Raku Pottery by Robert Piepenburg
The must have "Bible" of Raku
Order at: http://www.garyrferguson.com/piepenburg
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* Lasting Kiln Shelves *

One reader wrote: How long do your kiln shelves last? I'm
finding they crack after about 10 firings. I've tried both
full and half shelves, same problem. Do you bisque fire
them in an electric kiln before using them in the Raku
kiln? How far up from the floor are they set? My torch
enters from the side (not bottom) and I'm using four 6"
posts. Do you use soft brick as shelf support? Any advice
to cut down on breakage would be most appreciated.
---
Well, I've been using the same kiln shelf for 3 or 4 years
now. It's not real big, about 12 inches across and I set
it on 3 pieces of soft brick. My burner comes in the side
below this shelf. The soft bricks have broken and crumbled
over time and have been replaced, but I never had a problem
with the shelf.

I do set all my pieces on stilts and not directly on the
shelf, which is probably a benefit.

I also take about one hour to fire to temperature. If you
fire extremely fast I could see this as a potential problem
as well.

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Alternative Kilns & Firing Techniques James C. Watkins,
Paul Wandless http://tinyurl.com/72aaf
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* Click Away *

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Raku John Mathieson http://tinyurl.com/3f5yh~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

* Workshops, etc. *

None Currently

If you wish to no longer receive this newsletter send an
email to unsubscribe@garyrferguson.com with UNSUBSCRIBE in
the subject line.

$10 Free at Cafe Press

2005-05-24T13:11:00.000-06:00

Get $10 off any order of $30 or more from May 17 until June 14, 2005.
Use coupon code GRDAD05

Check out my stores at:
Got Raku
Just Raku
Raku Secrets

Thanks,
Gary Ferguson
www.garyrferguson.com
www.FactHive.com

Save $5 at Got Raku?

2005-05-14T14:07:00.000-06:00

Save $5 off any order of $50
Hurry - expires midnight May 18, 2005
Coupon Code - MAY5

Check out my stores at
Just Raku
Got Raku
Raku Secrets

Other Stuff:
Gardening Tips

Picture This: Raku

2005-05-03T08:56:00.000-06:00

Pamela Montalbano has been a clay artist for 16 years. She's a Raku artist, specializing in the "elemental art" of Raku - a process that dates back to 15th century Japan. A ceramics professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University, she recently held an outdoor Raku firing for her students. Full Article

Other Links
Gardening Tips
Got Raku?

[Just Raku] April 2005 Issue Online

2005-04-28T21:59:00.000-06:00

Just a quick note.

In case you missed the April Issue of the Just Raku
Newsletter or if it never reached your inbox, you can view
it on-line at: http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku30.htm

The May issue will be sent soon.

Until then...

Raku Class - Long Beach, CA - April 30, 2005

2005-04-25T09:54:00.000-06:00

Raku class, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. April 30 and May 1, Bodine Pottery, 108 Jeff Davis Ave., Long Beach. Includes instruction in Raku glazes, building a Raku kiln and Raku firing techniques. Cost: $125 includes all materials and firing fees. Details: 863-4734.

Raku Secrets

[Just Raku] April 2005 - Issue# 30

2005-04-20T17:54:00.000-06:00

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* While the Smoke Clears *

Hello

Yeah, I know this issue is late, ok later than most, but
at least it is still April!

I have been super busy the last several weeks and
unfortunately not necessarily with Raku. Bummer!

So what has been happening around the home front?
The youngest is now officially one year old and I did not
know it was possible to get cake there!

Gardening season is right around the corner and I have huge
tomato plants (started from seed) in my greenhouse just
begging to hit the outdoors. I can hardly wait for fresh
salsa!

I've also been busy working on the 2nd edition of Raku
Glazes (http://www.rakuglazes.com), which I hope to have
available in a few weeks.

Oh, and I was able to snag the http://www.rakuartist.com
domain name a couple weeks ago. Don't know what I'll do
with it yet, but it's mine, mine, all mine, hahahaha.

Well enough blabbing. On to this month's newsletter and as
always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at:
editor@garyrferguson.com

Gary R. Ferguson
- Raku Artist
pottery@garyrferguson.com

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"Raku clothing is Hot!" Paris Hilton (could have said
this) http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
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* Article *

Overcoming Artist's Block (part 2)
By Gail Miller

Once you are ready to start working again you will know it
instinctively. All artists go through periods of 'creative
block' - it's normal, but after one such episode there are
ways of stimulating ideas and getting the creative juices
flowing again.

Visit your local library and take out books that cover
materials, techniques and subjects that are not familiar to
you. If you are a watercolor artist, why not try oils for
once? If you paint large acrylic abstracts, would it be
possible to try soft pastels on a smaller scale? What
results could you achieve by doing something completely
different to what you're used to?

What about trying collage or mixed media work? Take photos
of your neighborhood, family or friends. Local places of
interest, the countryside, the seashore, the city.
Manipulate your photos on your PC and print out as digital
art. Use the images, either natural or manipulated as
collage pieces. It is so therapeutic cutting pieces and
sticking them down. Use a range of materials to finish your
work.

Instead of going straight back to paintings or drawings on
normal scale; why not create some miniature pieces? How
about greetings cards? White card 'blanks' are very easy to
source. How delighted family, friends or customers would be
to own a unique hand painted card.

Try drawing for once instead of painting, if that's your
usual medium, or vice versa. Fill a sketchbook with small
quick sketches. You could even time yourself. Three or five
minutes maximum for each sketch.

When you're ready to go full size again, try loosening up
your technique, by again setting a time limit for each
piece of work you create. With a deadline to meet, you will
speed up and loosen up. Try not to be precious with your
art. Be quick and bold - see what happens.

Paint upside down. Start a new piece, then half way through
turn the paper or canvas round 90 degrees. This is a great
technique for abstracts. Use new colors - let them flow
into each other. Splatter colors onto the wet surface. If
you like, you could turn the work once more to finish. What
a great way to create 'happy accidents'.

Paint or draw to music. Use only your emotion to make marks
on the surface of your support. Play your favorite rock,
pop or classical music let the melodies and rhythms wash
over you, influencing how your artwork evolves. I often
paint to 'Smile' by Brian Wilson and boy do I get inspired!

What about painting left-handed if you're a right-hander
and vice versa. Trying to do a representational work with
your weakest side will produce art that is still yours, but
will have a completely different edge to it. Challenging
and great fun to do ... if you have the discipline!

Finally, once you get back into full flow, remind yourself
of all the artwork you have created successfully. How
appreciated you are by your customers. Read their
testimonials. Feel that glow again, when you realize that
your creativity block was only temporary and that there are
fans out there just waiting for you to release some
wonderful new artwork into the arena.

Gail Miller is a professional artist whose artwork is a
visual feast of colors and fun. Her fascination with bold
colors and fluid, expressive shapes and line are evident in
funky abstracts, sinuous nudes, vibrant still life
paintings and lively townscapes.
Visit her website at http://www.gailmiller.com

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Raku: A Practical Approach by Steven Branfman
The "nuts and bolts" how-to book of Raku
http://www.garyrferguson.com/branfman
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* Tips and Techniques *

(Question from a reader) I found your Raku glaze recipes on
the web (http://www.garyrferguson.com/rakuglaz.htm. It's
very generous of you to publish them. I have a question
about using Crackle White. It just doesn't seem to go on
smoothlyit dries almost immediately. Have I mixed it
wrong or is that just the way it is? Also, if I do not get
a good smooth coat, will it smooth out during the firing as
it becomes molten? It seems to me that I tried this once
before in a class, and that was the case, but it's been
years, and now I'm about to do my first Raku firing on my
own this weekend, and I'm getting pieces ready. I painted
the Crackle White on a vase and it just isn't smooth, but
like I said, if memory serves, that's just the way this
glaze is. Is that correct?
--
I have found many glazes do not "go on smooth" especially
when applied with a brush. This typically is due to the
chemicals in the glaze and the suspension characteristics.
I don't worry about it too much unless the glaze is really
lumpy. You can smooth down the glaze by using your "gloved"
finger, sponge, etc. Usually these glazes with smooth out
during the maturing process, but some don't entirely
especially if not soaked at the maturing temperature. This
is just an added effect to the result and I wouldn't worry
about it.

(Question continues) Any advice for my first firing? Some
friends and I built a kiln last summer at my ranch, and
they fired some pieces right away, but I've been too scared
to try it myself, plus got involved in other projects and
so the kiln has sat, unused, this past year. I am about to
change that and get over my intimidation, so here goes.
--
Well my first advice comes from a shoe manufacturer "Just
Do It!" The only way to learn is practice. Don't fire your
favorite piece first, but try some "seconds" first. Try
several firing to learn how your kiln fires. You can even
fire the same piece several times. You may be pleasantly
surprised with your first firings. Raku is very forgiving!

* Q & A *

Q: A present for Christmas (2003) was a large ceramic jar
to which a matt copper rainbow colored Raku glaze had been
applied. Less than six months later the colors had
virtually vanished. It is for all observations now black.
Can a firing revive the color? Can I apply another glaze
(pref. glossy) over it and refire? Or is a hundred bucks
to a less than honest clay artist lost?

A: First of all, I don't think I would blame the artist
unless he made some promises that the colors would never
change. He may not have known, or not expected them to
change that drastically.

The short answer is "yes" the piece could be refired and
you should get a different result, but there is no
guarantee you will get close to the same coloring you
originally had and there is a chance the piece could be
damaged during the second firing.

Also another glaze could be applied and fired as well, but
there again, you probably wouldn't know how the 2nd glaze
would react with the first one, so I wouldn't really
recommend this option.

Usually I just chalk up the color changing as one of the
characteristics of Raku, but then again, I've never had a
piece completely lose all color before.

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"Bought your book - great compendium!"
http://www.rakuglazes.com
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* Glazing *

Thanks for all the info you put out there in your
newsletters. The info is a huge help. I am very, very new
at the art of Raku. I have built my kiln from the
instructions out of Steve Branfman's book
http://www.garyrferguson.com/branfman and am very happy
with it. Now I need to learn how to use it. I have fired
about 4 or 5 times and of course the first was very
disappointing and the rest only a little bit better. I
think I'm not firing long enough for the glazes to flow but
I am firing a long time, sometimes an hour.

What I am getting are pieces with thick cakey looking glaze
with lots of pinholes and occasionally a smooth spot on the
piece with some copper colors starting to come through. I
am firing pendants and beads, they are small pieces and it
is hard for me to view the progression through the firing.

I have begun to put one pendant on a 4-inch post so I can
view it better through my peephole. Also, my peepholes are
in the front not a flue on the top it that ok?

Last question what temp do most Raku glazes fire at. I'm
using a Turquoise, a Copper blue, chartreuse green, a del
favero luster, and red bronze. Some of these I got from
Branfman's book. I don't really even know what these
colors are supposed to look like after reduction.

And I guess one more question. Do I have to stick to
firing with one glaze color in a firing to make sure
I don't have different glazes that don't reach maturity at
the same time?

Thanks so much for any light you can shed my way. I can't
wait to see the brilliant colors I know are
there. :)

---

From your description it sounds like either you are
applying the glaze way too thick and/or not firing the
glazes to maturity. When a glossy glaze is fired to
maturity it should basically appear smooth (some do have a
little texture to them). The maturity is not based purely
on time but temperature as well. In other words you may
reach maturity in 20 minutes if you fire very quickly to
1800F, but never get maturity even after 2 hours if you
never get above 1400F.

Most Raku is fired somewhere between 1600F and 1800F.

Usually you can fire different glazes in the same kiln load
even if they mature at different temperatures because you
can always pull the lower temperature maturity glazes
earlier and let the high temperature maturity glazes fire
longer.

Good Luck!

* Reader Feedback *

Hi Gary Ferguson!
RE: "Raku Secrets"
Is there any advantage to ordering the paper version verses
the e-version? The e-version states" P.S. Remember you get
125+ pages of Raku Secrets, 2 FREE Bonus Reports including
how to build your own kiln, FREE electronic delivery, and
FREE updates for one amazing low price!

I need to learn how to build a Raku kiln from an electric
kiln. Is this in the paper version as well? Will I get
updates with the paper version? I can't stand to read off a
computer monitor, so can I print out the e-version if this
is a better advantage?
Thanks,
Alene

~ ~ ~

Hi Alene:
The only real advantage to the Paper version is it is
already printed and bound (if you don't have a printer or
want to give a gift). The negatives are you have to pay
postage, don't get any free updates, and the free reports
are not included - so the eBook is a much better deal in my
opinion.

Yes, you can print a copy of the eBook to read or use away
from your computer - no problem

Here's the links
Raku Secrets eBook http://www.rakusecrets.com
Raku Secrets Paper http://www.cafepress.com/rakusecrets

Thanks,
Gary F

* * * * * * * * *

I am a neophyte when it comes to pottery and am just
beginning to experiment with mixing my own glazes. I
appreciate the free Raku glaze recipes very much but have a
question regarding them. The first two recipes (Alligator
& Alligator 2) indicate that the standard of measurement is
in cups. The recipes that follow provide no standard. Is
it cups on all of the recipes or something else? Most of
the recipes I have use grams and I'm hoping the alkaline
blue recipe doesn't require 70 cups of Frit 3110.

Thanks again.
Bob B.

~ ~ ~

Hi Bob:

The following Just Raku Issue addressed how to read a glaze
recipe: http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku22.htm

Good Luck,
Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Thanks, Gary.
I'm really enjoying the book so far. And I sure appreciate
your sharing the kiln and website info. Fantastic
collection of info.
Judy W.

[If you would like to see what Judy is talking about go to:
http://www.rakusecrets.com ]

* * * * * * * * *

Hi Gary,
I was doing a Google search regarding a Raku question and
your site with questions and answers popped up but I
couldn't find what I was looking for. It appears that you
have answered this question before so maybe you could
forward me with your answer. I have a box of bisque Raku
pots that I made and now don't have access to a Raku kiln.
I do have an electric kiln though. I'm wondering what you
would recommend to obtain a Raku look.
Would really appreciate some suggestions.
Thanks,
Lyn

~ ~ ~

Lyn:

AAARRGGHH!! I've been Googled!!! Oh, wait a minute, that
is a good thing huh?!?

Seriously, in the following Just Raku Issue I discussed
firing Raku in an electric kin:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku18.htm

Good Luck!
Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Hey Gary,

I noticed someone wanted info on Naked Raku in your last
newsletter. Raku and Naked Raku are my two consuming
passions and I have learned a lot from a group on yahoo
dedicated to Naked Raku. It is a very well moderated group
and the people are friendly and willing to share info. The
group has an archive, which is full of technical info as
well as a photo gallery of member's work. If you are
interested in Naked Raku, this is the place to be! The
address is: http://www.nakedraku@yahoogroups.com.
Peace,
Allyson M.

~ ~ ~

Allyson:

Thanks for the resource I'm a member too and have learned
a ton as well.

Ok readers Let's Get Naked!!!

Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *
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Alternative Kilns & Firing Techniques James C. Watkins,
Paul Wandless http://tinyurl.com/72aaf
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* Click Away *

Just Creativity http://www.garyrferguson.com/creativity
My eBay Listings http://tinyurl.com/tn08
Just Raku Blog http://justraku.blogspot.com
Just Raku Logowear http://www.cafepress.com/justraku
Got Raku? http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Just Raku Archive http://www.JustRaku.com

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Raku John Mathieson http://tinyurl.com/3f5yh
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* Workshops, Ads, etc. *

None at time of press

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Raku: Investigations Into Fire by David Jones
http://www.garyrferguson.com/jones
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If you wish to no longer receive this newsletter send an
email to unsubscribe@garyrferguson.com with UNSUBSCRIBE in
the subject line.

$5 Free at CafePress

2005-04-07T07:19:00.000-06:00

Save $5 off any order of $20
Hurry - expires midnight April 11, 2005
Check out my stores at
Just Raku
Got Raku
Raku Secrets

[Just Raku] March 2005 - Issue# 29

2005-03-11T15:53:00.000-07:00

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* While the Smoke Clears *

Welcome to another issue of Just Raku.

I want to thank everyone for the wonderful responses I
received in regards to the "Reader Feedback" section of the
last issue. You all pretty much responded with what I
really wanted to say, so I figure I was not far off on my
feelings.

I won't be publishing this feedback in the Just Raku
newsletter, but I did want to thank each of you for your
responses and for letting me know it is ok to keep doing
what I'm doing.

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at:
editor@garyrferguson.com

Gary R. Ferguson
- Raku Artist
pottery@garyrferguson.com

* From the Studio *

Well this is the month for NCECA in Baltimore, but I'll be
home unfortunately. If you are lucky enough to be
attending, check out the Axner booth while you are there.
Axner pottery has started carrying my books and they should
have copies of both of them (Raku Glazes and Raku Secrets)
available at NCECA.

If you are unable to attend, but would like a printed-paper
version, they can be ordered at:
Raku Glazes http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Raku Secrets http://www.cafepress.com/rakusecrets
Or if you would like the eBook versions they are still
available at:
http://www.rakuglazes.com
http://www.rakusecrets.com

NCECA next year is in Portland, OR my neck of the woods
so there is a good chance I'll be able to attend next year.

* Article *

Overcoming Artist Block (Part I)
By Gail Miller

How many times does an artist stare down at that blank
piece of paper thinking "What on earth do I paint - Where
do I put my first mark?" More often than you would imagine!
It happens to all creative people actually, from visual
artists, designers, poets, through to musicians and
writers.

When this situation arises, you are in the grip of creative
block. When you wrack your brains to come up with ideas but
just can't seem to. There may be contributing factors to
this state, such as tiredness, depression, environmental,
physiological or psychological issues. On the other hand
you could just be experiencing a period of simple low
creativity.

When this happens there are a few things you can do to
restore your creativity levels at will, however what you
must not do is worry or fret about it. If the worst comes
to the worse and you don't seem to be able to produce any
work, simply regard the period as a 'holiday' or a rest.
Your creativity level WILL rise again. In the meantime,
utilize the time spent not creating to do positive things
anyway.

Research other artists' work. Visit galleries or surf the
net and see what other people are doing. Join artists' chat
rooms or visit message boards or forums where you can
exchange ideas and views with other artists. Just talking
to other creative people can give you a real buzz! You
might even make some new friends in the process.

Spend the time you are not actually producing art, by
increasing your marketing efforts. Send postcards to
galleries; research upcoming local art fairs or events
where you could possibly take a booth to sell your art.
Have some leaflets or brochures printed up all about
yourself and your work. Take a couple of days out of your
schedule and do a local neighborhood leaflet drop.

Update your website or online portfolio. You may think it's
already perfect but it's not often that things can't be
improved or sharpened in some way. Update your artist's
statement; put new 'zing' into your descriptions.

If you really can't face doing anything concerning your own
artwork, visit the theatre, go to a pop concert, and browse
local museums. Go to a restaurant or coffee bar with
friends and have a (non art related) natter.

Use the time to take a complete break, if this is what
works best for you. You will instinctively know when the
time is right to 'go back' to your art. When this happens
there are lots of techniques you can use to get back into
the swing of high creativity. These I explore in my article
'Overcoming Artist's Block (part 2)'.
---
Gail Miller is a professional artist whose artwork is a
visual feast of color and fun. Her fascination with bold
colors and fluid, expressive shapes and line are evident in
funky abstracts, sinuous nudes, vibrant still life
paintings and lively townscapes. Visit her website at
http://www.gailmiller.com

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Raku: A Practical Approach by Steven Branfman
The "nuts and bolts" how-to book of Raku
Order 30% off at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5k
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* Tips and Techniques *

Can I use a roofing torch to fire my Raku kiln?

I've never used a roofing torch before, but I think I know
what you are talking about.

I think this would work ok as long as your kiln was not too
big. I'm not sure how many BTUs this type of torch creates,
but as long as it can heat your kiln to the correct
temperature (fast enough) it should be fine.

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Did you get everything you wanted for Christmas? If not,
Amazon sells more than books! Help support this newsletter
by using the following link: http://tinyurl.com/x5xa
~~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-

* Q & A *

Q: Have you had any experience with bisque firing in a Raku
kiln? Instead of having to wait until you have enough to
fill an ordinary kiln and then having to wait for the kiln
to heat up and to cool down before you can get your bisqued
ware, it would be great to just bisque fire small portions
fast in a little Raku kiln. I know this can be done but
what do you recommend regarding temperature and for how
long should you keep the temperature on top?

A: You could Bisque fire in a Raku kiln, but I think you
would want to follow the firing speed and temperatures that
closely match a regular bisque firing. Greenware is very
fragile and there is always more water that has to be
burned off during a bisque firing, so you would need to be
very careful for the greenware to survive. The stress of a
Raku firing is tough enough on bisqued pieces let alone
greenware. But, I would assume there are types of pieces
you could do this with - small, even, thin walled pieces,
that are very dry could be a candidate, but I would not
attempt it with larger, thick walled pieces.

This is why once-fired Raku is not very popular.

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"Bought your book - great compendium!"
http://www.rakuglazes.com
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* Glazing *

Occasionally there is a mention of in-kiln reduction during
a Raku firing. I have attempted this but the results seem
no different than post fire reduction when I reduce for
about ten minutes. Can you offer suggestions as to
duration, etc. Also do you know a source for stannous
chloride?

True, not all glazes will react drastically different with
kiln reduction versus post-kiln reduction, but there are
some differences, and exceptions.

In-kiln reduction could potentially be much stronger and
have a different result on copper based glazes, especially
when layered.

For example, one technique to get "Red" is to layer copper
carbonate between layers of clear crackle and then fire in
heavy reduction. The kiln reduction is supposed to help
"draw" the red from the copper through the layer of clear
crackle. A deeper reduction so to speak. Where as with
just post-kiln reduction, you normally get surface level
reduction and are more like get copper colors instead of
red.

I've never achieved a really good Red using this technique
yet (only tried it once or twice), but it is supposed to
work.

For most types of specialty chemicals, I'd give US Pigment
Corp www.uspigment.com a try.

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
Raku Pottery by Robert Piepenburg
The must have "Bible" of Raku
Order at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5b
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

* Reader Feedback *

Hi Gary,
Can you tell me in what issue I can find information on
Naked Raku? I've been looking through each issue, that I
have, one by one and my eyes are now teasing me.

I love receiving these e-mails.

Thank you in advance for your assistance and your devoted
work for all us
potters.

~ ~ ~

Actually I have not had a Naked Raku issue yet, but I'm
sure there will be one in the near future.

Thanks,
Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Hi Gary,
I need a little help if you don't mind. I am attending a
Raku workshop at our local community college. The college
provided clay, prepared by ceramics students, for all
workshop participants. The clay is nothing short of gumbo.
It is useless for hand building, which is what I wanted to
do. My question is can I use my own clay, purchased from
Highwater Clays? One is a cone-10 clay that is supposed to
have high thermal shock values. I do have Cone 06 and
Cone 6 clays. I searched the Clayart archives, but can't
gather much info there. Any advice you can give me would
be highly appreciated.
Thank you,
Sheron R.

~ ~ ~

Hi Sheron:
The simple answer is yes, you can use any clay that can be
fired to cone 06 or higher. I would recommend using clay
that can be fired hotter (cone 6 or cone 10 for example),
but the clay does not have to be called "Raku" clay to be
Raku fired.

I personally use a Cone 10 stoneware clay for most of my
Raku work.

Thanks,
Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Dear Gary,
I am enjoying the e-books. Wish I had them when began Raku.
I would have saved much frustration. But I did learn quite
a bit on my own. Thanks for all the information!

First, I have done many Raku glaze samples and would rather
not get any more ingredients than I already have so of all
the white or clear glaze recipes in your book, is there one
that you would say fires more matt than the others? I do
not like shiny.

Second, you talk a bit about salt (pg 116) being introduced
near the end of the firing. I am not wild about putting
salt in my nice new Raku kiln. Have you or anyone put it
in the reduction chamber or soaked the combustible material
in salt? I am going to give it a try, but would like to
hear from others.

Thanks again for your excellent newsletter.
Pam

~ ~ ~

Hi Pam:
I wouldn't be that excited about putting salt in my brand
new kiln either, but then again people buy/build brand new
salt kilns. Go figure! :)

I'm not sure how the salt soaked reduction materials would
work. It might not be hot enough, long enough to actually
fume the pieces, but I would love to hear how it works out.

I have not tried to actually fire a matte white before, but
I do know several of the clear and white glazes when
slightly under fired will be matte (discovered this by
accident of course). Give that a try.

Thanks,
Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Dear Gary:
I have been a student of pottery for the last 27 years and
I have started out with very humble beginnings. Thru the
years I have never given up on my love of this medium. I
have fired my work in many different ways. The last 4 years
my work has taken a new turn; pit firing has been my
passion. I have in the past taken workshops in Raku. And
finally have started on a new journey into the Raku
process. Having invested time and money into equipment,
kiln, tongs etc. At the Fear and concern of my husband, he
thinks I am going to blow up the neighborhood using my
propane burners. Well, pit firing was fun, the fire
department made a few stops by my house. Any way I am very
safety conscience and I would like to know where I can find
Heat Shield face gear to protect my face during the loading
and unloading of the kiln. I would be very pleased to hear
from you. And Keep up the good work.
Diane K.

~ ~ ~

Hi Diane:
I got my face shield at a local farm supply store. I think
it is primarily used for shielding the face from flying
debris (like wood chips, etc.) but it keeps the heat off
your face pretty well. It is made of plastic and was less
than $20.

Good Luck!
Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Hi Gary,
I enjoy reading your newsletter. The ideas and hints really
help stimulate my creativity. In your last letter you
mention the Rick's Turquoise glaze and how amazing you feel
it is. Could you please tell me the recipe for it or where
it can be viewed (your archives or website?).
Thanks again,
Tim

~ ~ ~

Tim:

Check out the following back issue:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku18.htm

Thanks and Good Luck!
Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Gary:
What does GRF mean when listed at the top of your glaze
recipes?
Thanks
Kent

~ ~ ~

Kent:
GRF are just my initials (Gary R Ferguson). This was to
note that the comments about the glaze are from my
experience. Some of the comments on the glazes come from
the original source of the glaze.
GRF :)

* * * * * * * * *

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Alternative Kilns & Firing Techniques James C. Watkins,
Paul Wandless http://tinyurl.com/72aaf
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* Click Away *

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Raku John Mathieson http://tinyurl.com/3f5yh
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* Workshops, Ads, etc. *

LINDA & CHARLIE RIGGS
Internationally Renowned Saggar Masters
WORKSHOPS IN ARIZONA April 2005
TUCSON Apr 23-24
PHOENIX Apr 30-May 1
FEES: 1 day $90 / 2 days $160

For more details and some general saggar firing tips and
techniques, check out my blog at: http://tinyurl.com/68wvs
or http://justraku.blogspot.com/2005/01/saggar-workshop-in-
arizona.html

If you wish to no longer receive this newsletter send an
email to unsubscribe@garyrferguson.com with UNSUBSCRIBE in
the subject line.

Naked Raku - Kristi Downing - Online Article

2005-03-07T15:12:00.000-07:00

Very nice online article (including pictures) about Naked Raku.
Click Here to Read

Excerpt:
"Downing begins by throwing the pot and then, using black basalt stones gathered on the beach in front of her studio on Lake Superior, burnishes them until they gleam.
The pot is then covered with a slip and bisque-fired.
Next, depending on the process she’s using for that particular piece, the pot is dipped into a special glaze, or it is put directly into a kiln until it’s almost red hot. Then it’s removed with tongs and placed inside a large pail filled with sawdust and paper.
The heat ignites it immediately and a lid is clamped on it to keep in the smoke.
Ten minutes later, the pot, which is still too hot to touch, is plunged into a snow drift (in winter), and if all goes well, the glazes and slips begin falling off, revealing spectacular designs underneath. " - Cook County News 2005

[Just Raku] Feb Issue Available Online

2005-02-25T06:28:00.000-07:00

Just a quick note.

In case you missed the February Issue of the Just Raku
Newsletter or if it never reached your inbox, you can view
it on-line at: http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku28.htm
The feedback continues to be great on my latest eBook,
"Raku Secrets" http://www.rakusecrets.com - for example

"Wow! I love your books and so do my fellow classmates"
- Dawn C.

My first eBook, "Raku Glazes" is still available at:
http://www.rakuglazes.com and a f.r.e.e update to all
owners will be coming out shortly.

Finally, the March issue will be sent soon.

Until then...

Gary Ferguson
Clay Artist
Nampa, ID 83687

Just Raku Newsletter http://www.justraku.com
Got Raku? http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Just Raku Blog http://justraku.blogspot.com

Raku Fridays with Dale Bates

2005-02-17T15:19:00.000-07:00

With Dale Bates. 6-9 p.m. Fridays.
Santa Cruz Mountains Art Center
9341 Mill St.
Ben Lomond, CA
http://www.mountainartcenter.org
831.336.3513

Friday nights
6 - 9 pm
Drop in sessions, $18 each, members; $20 non
Raku master Dale Bates continues to amaze and delight participants with outstanding results. Red hot pots are pulled from the fire after about 1 hour, put in to reduction chambers and quenched with water. Bring you own bisqued pots, or buy them at the Center. Cost of glazes and firing included. Weather dependent.

[Just Raku] February 2005 - Issue# 28

2005-02-08T23:32:00.000-07:00

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JUST RAKU
The Newsletter for Raku Artists and Raku Art Lovers
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February 2005
Issue #28
Published by
Gary R. Ferguson Raku Artist
http://www.garyrferguson.com
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In This Issue
* While the Smoke Clears Las Vegas, Walking, Raku Secrets
* From The Studio 2005 Clay Goals
* Article Colorants (Part II)
* Tips/Techniques Crackle Glaze Fun
* Q&A Fine Art Fair Listings
* Glazing Vapor Glazing
* Reader Feedback What you said-some almost unbelievable
* Click Away Raku on the Web
* Raku Workshops

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* While the Smoke Clears *

Welcome to another issue!

January was a busy month. One week, I was in Las Vegas on
a business trip. Unfortunately, this was not a "clay
trip". It is sometimes overwhelming the amount of "input"
that hits you in the big hotels and casinos (lights,
sounds, people) 24/7. I'm not a big gambler, but I did
end up leaving town a little bit ahead.

My youngest, Trevor, has decide to start walking already at
9.5 months. This was a little unexpected since his older
brother, Connor, didn't really start walking until he was 1
year old. This has brought a whole new level of busy-ness
to my life. They never seem to take off in the same
direction!

Finally, the response to my new ebook, Raku Secrets, has
been tremendous. I'm very happy with the feedback I've
been receiving as well. Just a little confirmation that
all the hard work was appreciated.

I don't know if I officially announced this yet or not, but
if you have a Raku workshop coming up. Send me the info
and I'll include it in the next newsletter.

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at:
editor@garyrferguson.com

Gary R. Ferguson
- Raku Artist
pottery@garyrferguson.com

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Here is an easy (and free) way to support this newsletter.
Open a new eBay account by clicking on the link below and
select "register" at the top of the screen. Then look for a
deal and bid. Your support is greatly appreciated!
http://www.qksrv.net/click-411938-2202639
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* From the Studio *

Last month, I covered my 2004 Clay Goals. Well I guess I
need some for 2005. This year the focus is going to be
more on creativity and experimentation.

1) "Touch" clay every week
There have been weeks at a time that I have not "played
with clay" over the last year or so, and I plan on changing
that.

2) Extremes Very Large and Very Small work
I've noticed most of my work falls into a certain size
range. I've seen wonderful examples both miniatures and
multiple section installation pieces. I plan on trying
some of both.

3) Alternative Raku
I've seen and read about other types of Raku, but haven't
tried them yet. I plan on playing with Naked Raku,
Horsehair Raku, and maybe even fuming.

Well that should be enough. Hopefully you have some
"creative" Clay Goals for this year too.

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If you are interested in making a little extra money for
taking on-line surveys, click on the link below. Go to
http://www.surveysavvy.com/?id=1424287 and click on 'Join'.
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* Article *

Colorants Part II

Continuing on last month's article, here are some more
common colorants and how they will perform when used with
other chemicals or types of glazes:

Manganese Carbonate
- Brown
- Purple (in an Alkaline glaze)
- Blue to Purple (with Cobalt)
- Brown (with Iron or Rutile)
- Bronze to Gold (with Copper)

These colors are basically the same in reduction, but other
chemicals may react differently (i.e. the Copper noted
above)

Nickel Oxide
- Gray (when used in quantities less than 1%)
- Brown (when used in quantities more than 1%)
- Gray (in an Alkaline glaze)

Rutile
- Yellow and Brown
- Green (with Chrome or Copper)

When used in reduction colors of Blue and Purple can be
obtained.

Tin Oxide
- White

This is often used to make a clear glaze white or a colored
glaze brighter

Silver Nitrate
- Silver/Gold Luster

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
Raku: A Practical Approach by Steven Branfman
The "nuts and bolts" how-to book of Raku
Order 30% off at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5k
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

* Tips and Techniques *

I had several questions in regards to Firing Crackle glazes
which included How to prevent getting "dirty" crackle,
How to get colored crackle, and Why do I get no crackle
(especially on slip cast pieces).

Dirty Crackle can be caused from several things. If you
fire in reduction, you will likely get gray crackle so fire
in oxidation. Also you want to glaze fairly thick and make
sure you are getting a good melt. If not, the glaze will
be a little dry or matte looking. Finally you want to clean
the piece really well. My favorite is SoftScrub and steel
wool

You can color crackle a few ways: add colorants (like
copper, cobalt, iron, etc.) to the base glaze, or add
stains (like Mason stains) to the base glaze, or use an
underglazes on the piece and then cover with a clear
crackle.

If you are not getting crackle, the glaze fits the clay too
well. The glaze needs to shrink slightly more than the
clay in order for cracks to form. You can try cooling the
piece faster or blowing air on the piece, but normally if
you are not getting crackle you either need to change the
clay body or change crackle glaze that you are using.

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Amazon sells more than books! Help support this newsletter
by using the following link: http://tinyurl.com/x5xa
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* Q & A *

Q: I'm looking for a source of "Fine Art Fair" listings in
the US. Any ideas?

A: I know a few sources that provide Fair Listings

Ceramics Monthly Magazine (http://www.ceramicsmonthly.com)
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00006K8DH/rakuclayartis-20
Has a section in the back of each issue that lists major
shows across the country.

Art Calendar Magazine (http://www.artcalendar.com)
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00006KYMW/rakuclayartis-20
About the half the magazine is dedicated to shows, fairs,
galleries, etc.

Crafts Report Magazine (http://www.craftsreport.com)
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00008BFUI/rakuclayartis-20
Has many articles about the business of being an artist and
includes many ads and reviews on major shows across the US.

Sunshine Artist Magazine (http://www.sunshineartist.com)
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00006KYMW/rakuclayartis-20
Has listings for all kinds of art festivals, craft shows,
and exhibits.

Hopefully this helps, and good luck.

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"Bought your book - great compendium!"
http://www.rakuglazes.com
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* Glazing *

Vapor Glazing

There was a question emailed to me after last month's issue
as to "What is Vapor Glazing."

So I did a little research and discovered an old issue of
Clay Times March/April 2001 that had an article covering
Vapor Glazing by Biz Littell. His technique is named
"Kosai ware" which means "hue of light" and involves the
use of precious metals such as gold and platinum or special
salts such as Stannous Chloride.

His process is to first bisque fire the piece, then glaze
fire the piece to cone 04. Then the piece is fired a third
time to about 1000F at which point the kiln is opened to
cool down to about 800F. One to two tablespoons of
stannous chloride crystals are quickly poured on the hot
kiln shelf around the pieces (but not on the pieces). Then
the kiln is closed for a few minutes to give the salts time
to fume the pieces.

This colorant effect is more permanent that the standard
Raku copper matte flashing effect.

These chemicals are apparently very corrosive so it is
critical that the proper safety equipment is used
respirator, mask, gloves, etc.

The following website has a very similar article:
http://goffpottery.com/finch00/finch.html

More examples of this type of work:
http://www.lalobaranch.com/modules.php?set_albumName=littel
l&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~
Raku Pottery by Robert Piepenburg
The must have "Bible" of Raku
Order at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5b
~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

* Reader Feedback *

* * * * * * * * *

Gary:
I saw your pictures on your Raku techniques [web page]
(http://www.garyrferguson.com/raku.htm) I was curious as to
your open container reduction process in the washtub. My
Professor would like to know too. Why do you do this?
Dawn

~ ~ ~

Dawn:
I use that technique when using the glaze Rick's
Turquoise. If I use a normal reduction method (lidded can,
etc.) I get a mainly copper with some burgundy/silver
flashing. If I use the water spraying technique in the
tub, I get an incredible range of colors of turquoise,
green, red, yellow, copper all on the same piece. It is a
very amazing glaze when reduced this way.
Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Hello Gary,
Thanks so much for all you contribute! I've been able to
set myself up in Mexico with a fabulous kiln and dog gone
successful results thanks to your incredibly informational
book!! Wow!

I'm writing because as I said, I'm in a remote part of
Mexico far away from any ceramics supply store or chemical
supply and I have a couple questions for you. I have a good
supply on hand of Gerstley borate and Nepheline Syenite and
some bone ash, also cobalt carb and copper carb and oxide.
I also have quite a bit of underglaze colors. I've tried
mixing the underglazes into an 80/20 blend of
Gerstley/Nepheline and can't get any true color... mostly
white with some light color or flat black and fired to cone
08. I've read that I can add GB to underglaze to get a
glossy glaze, but haven't gotten any strong results. Shall
I just relegate myself to the world of pastels? Do you have
any tips on using underglaze colors in Raku? I'm guessing I
must run them thru a light bisque first. Any suggestions
you have would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks again for your contributions to the crazy world of
Raku!
Michele M.

~ ~ ~

Hi Michele:
You don't say what percent of underglaze you are adding to
the 80/20 blend. I know with some Mason stains and
underglazes you have to add a large percentage (like 30% to
50%) to get certain colors.

You might also try covering the piece with the underglaze
first and then put a light coat of the 80/20 over the
underglaze. Spraying the 80/20 glaze over the underglaze
works best.

You probably already know this, but you can also add the
Copper Carbonate and Cobalt Carbonate to the 80/20 glaze
and get great dark Blues and Greens as well.

Hope this helps.
Gary F

* * * * * * * * *

Hi Gary,
I received the eBook last week. Really, a very good book!
Lots of things I didn't know yet.
I'm glad I have it.
Regards,
Hanneke B.

~ ~ ~

Hanneke:
I'm glad you are enjoying the new Raku Secrets eBook. The
feedback in general has been great.
(http://www.rakusecrets.com)
Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Dear Gary,
I have recently joined your newsletter and enjoy it very
much, thanks.

I also noticed your ebook, which I am very interested in.
My only concern is that in Australia the ingredients are
different eg. It is not possible to obtain Gerstley borate
from the suppliers that I'm aware of. Can you help me in
this question - is there a simple substitute? I want to be
able to make most of the recipes that I have seen for Raku.
Thanks for your time.
Jill

~ ~ ~

Hi Jill
The following issue of the Just Raku Newsletter lists
several possible substitutes for GB. I'm not sure if these
other chemicals or Frits are available in "Oz" or not.
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku22.htm
Let me know.
Thanks,
Gary F

* * * * * * * * *

Dear Gary,
I'm a long time reader and Raku artist. I like your
newsletter because it gives lots of practical tips and some
glaze recipes as well. I always enjoy trying new glazes.
But mostly I like your newsletter because I enjoyed reading
about another Raku artist who was experiencing some of the
same things I was and who was faced with some of the same
choices I was.

But lately I've been dreading opening your newsletter. I
couldn't figure out why I was dreading it so much,
especially given the fact I enjoyed it so much. Then I
finally realized: your newsletter is one huge ad for you;
your book, your website, etc.

Now, I don't [fault an] artist [for] making a buck (and I
enjoy making one myself!) but seriously dude, enough
already.

I'd much rather read about your process as an artist or
your struggles to come up with something new, firing
surprises and the things that make an artist's work
different than say a lawyers (for example). I'd much
rather read about how you combat burning out on a favorite
design that is a huge seller than where I can get your
latest "Got Raku" tee-shirt.

I think you have something to contribute to the Raku
community beyond glaze recipes and books - that is what I'm
trying to get across here

Thanks,
[Name Withheld by Editor]

~ ~ ~

I really debated putting your comments in this issue, but
decided, what the heck, at least I'm an equal opportunity
newsletter editor. So here goes

I also was going to go on a rant, but I decided against
that as well. I'm mellowing in my old age. Instead I have
just two comments:

1) I won't tell you how many hours it takes each month to
publish this F.R.E.E. newsletter.

2) If you are dreading the newsletter each month please
unsubscribe. I don't think I can handle being the source of
your discomfort.
:)
Thanks for your support!

* * * * * * * * *

Gary:
It's all your fault. I was up all night reading "Raku
Secrets". I have been Rakuing for about ten years, and
still so much to learn. Your Raku Secrets gave me a lot of
new insight. Thanks so much for all you do for us
"Rakuists".
Elaine S.

~ ~ ~

Elaine:
You had me going there for a second. Thought I was getting
another "complaint" email. I'm a little gun shy now.
Glad you are enjoying the eBook.
Thanks!
Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Hi Gary
Your new book sounds great I just ordered it. But I have
a concern that maybe you can help me with. I seem to be
stumped when it comes to a plain ole dependable clear (for
white clay) crackle glaze. Is there such thing as a
foolproof 2 or 3 ingredient recipe that is a bit flexible
over a couple hundred degrees of firing temperature that
works with or without post-fire reduction? Or do all of
these variables have to be right on the nut? It is really
tormenting me. What say you?

PS Is the new book in hard copy format? Or only electronic?
PPS I'd also like to find a good crackle glaze that uses
Kona, which I have a surplus of.

Thanks!
Mike B.

~ ~ ~

Mike B.
I don't think "foolproof" and Raku can be uttered in the
same sentence. ?

Seriously, it will take some playing around with different
glazes on the clay you use, because the crackle is related
to how much the glaze shrinks more than the clay. So there
isn't one answer.

Typically with a clear crackle you don't need a heavy
reduction, but you do need to have a bunch of smoke to
stain the clay so the crackle is visible.

Hope this helps,
Gary F.

PS Raku Secrets is primarily sold as an eBook but a
printed-paper version is available at
http://www.cafepress.com/rakusecrets
PPS I found one I don't know what kind of crackle it will
produce thought. Let me know.

White Cloud
Gerstley Borate 75
Kona Feldspar 25

* * * * * * * * *

Hi Gary
Hey I can't help but think that OCC Luster that you refer
to in [last] month's newsletter might be one of Robert
Piepenburg's you know he's affiliated with Oakland
Community College up here in the Detroit area. I'm not
putting money on it but I've seen the glaze bins at their
Royal Oak campus and a bunch of their labels have that OCC
designation. Just a thought.

Oh, and for what its worth: when mixing a glaze batch I
always get out all of the ingredients first, line them up
(next to the scale) in the order they appear on my 'recipe'
card, and then replace each one on the shelf immediately
after adding that component. That way interruptions and
phone calls don't make me miss my place.
Mike B.

~ ~ ~

Mike:
You may be right about the OCC glaze. I'm always curious
about how some glazes get named.

Thanks for the additional tips on not screwing up when
mixing a batch of glaze.
Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Happy New Year, Gary, and Buon Anno as they say here in
Italy. Hope you can continue this wonderful initiative that
probably takes quite a bit of your time but connects,
through Raku, people in the USA and Europe and perhaps
other continents too.
Ana

~ ~ ~

Hi Ana:
I have never tracked all the counties that I have Just Raku
subscribers, but I know it is several dozen at this point.
Raku is Everywhere!!!
Thanks,
Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *
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Alternative Kilns & Firing Techniques James C. Watkins,
Paul Wandless http://tinyurl.com/72aaf
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* Click Away *

My eBay Listings http://tinyurl.com/tn08
Just Raku Blog http://justraku.blogspot.com
Just Raku Logowear http://www.cafepress.com/justraku
Got Raku? http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Just Raku Archive http://www.JustRaku.com

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Raku John Mathieson http://tinyurl.com/3f5yh
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* Workshops, Ads, etc. *

LINDA & CHARLIE RIGGS
Internationally Renowned Saggar Masters
WORKSHOPS IN ARIZONA April 2005
TUCSON Apr 23-24
PHOENIX Apr 30-May 1
FEES: 1 day $90 / 2 days $160

For more details and some general saggar firing tips and
techniques, check out my blog at: http://tinyurl.com/68wvs
or http://justraku.blogspot.com/2005/01/saggar-workshop-in-
arizona.html

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Raku: Investigations Into Fire by David Jones
Order 30% off at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5x
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This newsletter is send to opt-in members only. If this
issue was forwarded to you and you would like your own copy
each month send an email to subscribe@garyrferguson.com
with SUBSCRIBE in the subject line.

If you wish to no longer receive this newsletter send an
email to unsubscribe@garyrferguson.com with UNSUBSCRIBE in
the subject line.

Disclaimer: Just Raku, the owner(s) and representative(s)
of this website and newsletter will not be held liable for
any direct or indirect losses or damages originating from
the use of any information listed on our website or in our
newsletters. By using this site and newsletter you agree to
indemnify and hold all owners and representative parties of
Just Raku harmless from any claim or demand originating out
of your use of the Just Raku website and/or newsletters.
Use of our website and newsletters is an indication of your
complete understanding and acceptance of these Terms of
Service.
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JUST RAKU (C) Copyright 2002-2005 Gary R. Ferguson

[Just Raku] January 2005 Issue Online

2005-01-27T22:58:00.000-07:00

Just a quick note.

In case you missed the January Issue of the Just Raku
Newsletter or if it never reached your inbox, you can view
it on-line at: http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku27.htm

Also I wanted to remind you about the Just Raku blog at:
http://justraku.blogspot.comI post a few items here that are not included in the regular
newsletter.

I'm really excited about the response I have received on my
my new ebook, "Raku Secrets" at: http://www.rakusecrets.com
Thanks to all of you!

Finally, the February issue will be coming out shortly.

Until then...

Gary Ferguson
Clay Artist
Nampa, ID 83687

Raku Secrets http://www.rakusecrets.com
Raku Glazes http://www.rakuglazes.com
Just Raku Newsletter http://www.justraku.com
Got Raku? http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Just Raku Blog http://justraku.blogspot.com

[Just Raku] Raku Secrets eBook Available

2005-01-22T18:51:00.000-07:00

I've mentioned it a few times in the last couple issues of
the Just Raku Newsletter and it is finally done. My second
ebook, "Raku Secrets" is complete and now available at:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/rakusecrets.htm

There is even a special deal if you have not got a copy of
my "Raku Glazes" eBook yet, and would like both eBooks now.
Go to http://www.rakusecrets.com and click on the second
Buy Now button.

Thanks
Gary Ferguson
Clay Artist
Nampa, ID 83687

Raku Glazes http://www.rakuglazes.com
Raku Secrets http://www.rakusecrets.com
Just Raku Newsletter http://www.justraku.com
Got Raku? http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
Raku Gallery http://www.garyrferguson.com

Got Raku? Discount

2005-01-20T07:13:00.000-07:00

Cafepress is running a Valentine Special from Jan 18th thru Feb 3rd, $5 off any order of $50. This is good for any Cafepress shops including mine:
Got Raku?
Just Raku

Just order what you want, and then during check out enter the coupon code VDAY50 and you'll save 10% on your $50 order.

Saggar Workshop in Arizona

2005-01-10T17:43:00.000-07:00

LINDA & CHARLIE RIGGS
Internationally Renowned Saggar Masters
WORKSHOPS IN ARIZONA April 2005

TUCSON Apr 23-24
PHOENIX Apr 30-May 1

FEES: 1 day $90 / 2 days $160

The RIGGS' WORK CAN BE VIEWED
At The Laloba Ranch website
www.lalobaranch.com
click on artists, riggs, gallery

This remarkable team, who have become universally recognized as preeminent masters of fine saggar fired pots, will be in Arizona in April 2005 to conduct two weekends of full participation workshops In their techniques of Saggar, Naked Raku Pop-Off, Naku Slip-Glaze,Ferric Chloride in Tin Foil, Ferric and Horsehair, 7-Layer Raku

The Riggs' are very kind and gentle teachers who are most generous with their expertise. I know that any participant's experience is sure to be an enjoyable and rewarding one. You can view full details at this website: www.claywoman.net or email for info to: barbarakobler@claywoman.net
LOCATIONS & ACCOMMODATIONS:

TUCSON AREA: At the studio of Barbara Kobler, located 15 miles from the airport south of city center in the suburb or Green Valley 1/4 mi. east of I-19. There are 3 motels within 10 minutes and a few free rooms in homes of local clay artists.

PHOENIX: At the studio of Mishy Lowe, located on northwest side of Phoenix 1 mile off of I-17 at Happy Valley Road. There are several inexpensive motels within 15 minutes.

ARTISTIC TECHNICAL DETAILS
A Letter From Linda and Charlie Riggs

"Hi everyone,
We are looking forward to meeting you at the workshop.

After thinking over our plans, and the time span in which we have to work, we have come up with a few suggestions that will help move the workshop along and give you a chance to prepare for it.

What will be covered in the 2 day workshop:

We will plan on doing saggar firing, naked raku--pop off and slip and glaze, ferric chloride tin-foil saggars, horsehair and ferric, and also Charlie's layered raku if we have time. At least a demo of Charlie's layered if there isn't time to fire it.

1 Day participants will be able to do the saggar firings, naku pop-off and possibly tin foil ferric chloride.

What to Bring: It is vital that your saggar containers be prepared ahead of time.

Quantity and Type of Saggar Containers to Bring: The containers will be the outer “shell” into which we will place the pot, sawdust and chemicals during the firing process. You will need several of your own to fit the bisqued pots you are bringing.

Making the Saggers: Our sagger containers are thrown out of Soldate 60, but any raku clay will do. You want about an inch of airspace between the saggar wall and your pot.

They are made in deep bowl shapes and are about 3/8" to ½” thick. When the two halves are placed together it should be 4" higher and wider than the pot to be fired inside it. Typical diameters would be 8", 10",12", etc. Standardizing the sagger diameters helps with replacements when they break. The saggers are bisque fired to cone 06. Hand builders can use slump or hump molds to build their saggar containers or make a drum shape using slabs.

How to Prepare the Pots for Saggar Firing: When using most of the firing techniques that we will be teaching, the best results are seen on smooth polished clay. That can be accomplished by hand burnishing or applying terra sig when bone dry and then polishing them with pantyhose or a soft cotton cloth. Please bring burnished or terrsig-polished bisque ware to experiment with during the workshop. Because of the limitations of time and space, we recommend you limit the size and numbers of pieces for a 2-day workshop to (a) 10 pieces that are 4 inches in diameter or (b) 8 pieces that are 6 inches in diameter. By bringing smaller pieces you will get a chance to try more techniques at the workshop. Any extra pieces can be fired when everyone gets a chance to fire all their required pieces. If you are attending only one day then decrease your quantity.

How to Prep Pots for Charlie's 7-Layer Raku Technique: Pots to be used for this method are made out of raku clay and don’t need to be burnished or terra sigged. Bring at least 1 piece for this technique in the above size ranges.

Clay Bodies
We recommend you use any clay body that you have successfully rakued in the past. For the best results with the techniques of saggar firing and naked raku, a smooth clay body is preferred. We recommend Laguna’s Miller 10-T (a very smooth clay with good thermal resistance properties), Laguna B-mix 5 or 10 for the pots to be saggar fired, and for Charlie's layered raku any raku clay. For best results from the techniques, the pots should be burnished or terrasig-polished to at least a satin finish. Terra sig instructions are included at the end of this epistle. Barbara my have some idea about clays in Arizona that are similar to what I have mentioned above. (Miller 10-T is not distributed by Laguna in the West. I used their EM 220 at the Riggs' workshop in Laloba with great success.)

Making the Pots
Extra care should be taken in the final throwing steps and during trimming to make the pot as smooth as possible. When the pots reach the bone-dry stage, spray on terra sigillata.* We use a Paasche "H" airbrush with a #3 or # 5 tip to spray on three coats of the terra sigillata. While it is still slightly damp, buff the pot with a soft cloth or pantyhose. The cycle of spraying and buffing is repeated until the desired shine is attained. At this point the pot can be placed in the bisque kiln and fired to cone 08.

*Note: When preparing a pot for saggar firing latex gloves are recommended during the final smoothing and terra sig process to prevent finger prints that will show up on the final fired ware. Pots that will be used for naked raku and horse hair raku can be dipped or painted with sig.

I think that just about covers everything. I know some of it sounds really picky but after years of workshops we have found the workshops run so much smoother and people are happier when they have the guidelines ahead of time.

We are really looking forward to our time together.

We will be happy to help in any way we can.

See you in April,

Sincerely,
Charlie and Linda Riggs

Have More Questions?

Techniques and Preparations email the Riggs' fireclay@earthlink.net

Reservations email barbarakobler@claywoman.net

Charlie's Home Brew Sig' Recipe:
I used to think that making terra sig' was a big production and you had to have lots of equipment (hydrometers, wine siphons, graduated cylinders marked in marked millimeters, centimeters, parts per million and billion.....) Yeh, right. Sure you can make the "Perfect Sig" that is smoother than glass using all that stuff but you can pretty much do the same with none of it!

This sig' recipe is for all of us non-technophiles and first timers.
1) Crack open a cold one.
2) Dump in 3.5 gallons of water in a bucket.
3) Stir in a tablespoon of sodium silicate and/or soda ash.
4) Mix in 15 lbs of XX sagger or ball clay and put the bucket up on a table.
5) Finish your cold one and wait a day.
6) Pour or siphon off the top 1.5 gallons. And use it.
That's it. Dip it, spray it, brush it.

Raku on eBay

2005-01-07T13:40:00.000-07:00

I hope everyone survived the Holiday Season!

I have more pieces listed on eBay. They can be seen at:
eBay Raku Auctions
or by searching for the seller fergusonauctions

If you have not already joined eBay, please do so, using the link below
Join eBay Here It Free!

The January 2005 issue of Just Raku will be published soon.

[Just Raku] December Issue is now online

2004-12-30T07:51:00.000-07:00

Just in case you missed the December Issue in your inbox or it was blocked by one of those good-hearted SP@M filters you can see it on line below or at
Just Raku #26 December 2004

Enjoy!

Have a Happy New Year!!!

Gary F.

New Raku Items Listed on Ebay

2004-12-27T21:40:00.000-07:00

I have listed 25+ Raku pieces on eBay. They can be seen at:
eBay Raku Auctions
or by searching for the seller fergusonauctions

Thanks for looking!

[Just Raku] December 2004 - Issue# 26

2004-12-21T00:53:00.000-07:00

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JUST RAKU
The Newsletter for Raku Artists and Raku Art Lovers
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Month December
Issue #26
Published by
Gary R. Ferguson Â Raku Artist
http://www.garyrferguson.com
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In This Issue
* While the Smoke Clears Â eBook Contest Winner?
* From The Studio Â Holiday Time and next eBook is coming
* Article Â More Non-exploding Pots & Firing Smalls by
Wally A.
* Tips/Techniques Â Wood Fired Raku by Lars B.
* Q&A Â Dry Glaze Falling Off
* Glazing Â Hawaiian Blue and Getting Color
* Reader Feedback Â You said it.
* Calendar - eBay
* Click Away Â Raku on the Internet

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* While the Smoke Clears *

2004 is just about over. It has been another exciting year
for me and I hope for you too.

Well the contest for the free Raku Glazes ebook is over and
a winner has been selected, but they have not confirmed
their email address yet Â so I maybe picking a new winner
soon. http://www.garyrferguson.com/contest.htm

I had very few responses to the survey last month, but most
of those who did respond, liked the length of the
newsletter and would not change it (some even wanted it
longer).

As always, I look forward to your feedback, suggestions,
questions, and article ideas at:
mailto:editor@garyrferguson.com.

Gary R. Ferguson
- Raku Artist -
mailto:pottery@garyrferguson.com

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Here is an easy (and free) way to support this newsletter.
Open a new eBay account by clicking on the link below and
select "register" at the top. Then bid on something,
anything. You don't even have to have high bid. Your
"clicking" will be very much appreciated.
http://www.qksrv.net/click-411938-2202639
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* From the Studio *

I have not had much time for studio work during the
holidays. My shows are over for the year and I've been
busy decorating, shopping, and being generally festive! ?

I'm still putting the finishing touches on my next eBook
(Raku Secrets) and hope to have it available the first of
2005.

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If you are interested in making a little extra money for
taking on-line surveys, click on the link below. I've made
about $100 in the last month or so. Go to
http://www.surveysavvy.com/?id=1424287 and click on 'Join'.
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* Article *
More Non-exploding Pots and Firing "Smalls"
By Wally Asselbergh

I just have some feedback on the issue of "How to keep pots
from exploding". This may indeed happen when wet pots are
put into a real hot Raku kiln, even upon first firing with
a very low flame. Most Raku kilns just heat up so quickly
in the beginning, and the flame and pyrometer must be
watched very closely.

Some clays are more likely to create explosions than
others. Very coarse or groggy clay is usually better than
using dense clay, or clay that is bisque fired too high.

If the clay contains any air pockets, the water evaporating
into steam is likely to collect in these air pockets, and
then tension builds up, until an explosion finally occurs.

My preferred method to avoid explosions is using a simple
barbeque to heat up pots after putting on the glaze. I use
this method both for my personal work as well as when
teaching workshops. Most of the time, 10 minutes are
enough. In many cases, you can visually watch the steam
evaporating. When this stops, pots are ready for the
kiln. You can also judge by touching the pots carefully
with a finger. If they are too hot to handle, you can be
sure all the water has evaporated.

Another alternative method is to preheat the pieces in an
electric kiln. Fire up the kiln to 100Â° Celsius, put in the
wet pots, and leave them in for 20 minutes (30 for real big
work) I used this method during a workshop in Tucson last
April, and not one single pot exploded.

Someone else also sent in a posting about problems with
firing real small objects that are difficult to handle with
tongs. My favorite method is a simple metal basket.

Go to a scrap yard or search in the "metal container" at
your local garbage collection center. Many people make
French Fries or croquettes in a frying pan filled with oil.
When the electric elements burn out, it us usually thrown
away, but the metal basket inside is still very good. This
basket is "top class" for firing small objects. It does
give off a very bad smell upon the first firing, when the
residue of oil or fat burns away, but it will then burn
clean for any future firings.

I have used many of those for 20 or more firings; the wires
do not burn very easily. They are also very easy to grab
with tongs, I just dump them into the smoke bin with
everything inside, and put the reduction material on top.

Of course I use this method for my "naked Raku" firings,
with a very low-end temperature of 775-800Â° Celsius, they
should be OK for standard Raku up to 900Â° C, but I don't
know how this baskets will behave in high-temperature Raku
firings of 1000Â° C or more. I would suggest you try it out.

I also put the little objects directly on to the wires, and
they usually leave no trace, as the glaze in "naked Raku"
comes off after the firing anyway.

For standard Raku, I would suggest to throw a plate the
size of the bottom of the metal basket, or put some thin
pieces of kiln shelf on the bottom to prevent the objects
sticking to the wires.

---

Note: I will be teaching 3 hands-on "Naked Raku" workshops
in USA next spring. I remember one of your newsletters last
year also gave some information about my workshops in
Arizona, and quite a few of the members of your newsletter
were amongst the participants.

Dates and locations:
April 16-17: Dallas Clay Guild, Texas
April 23-24: Hambidge Center for Creative Arts and
Sciences, Dillard, Georgia
April 30-May 1st: Clay Planet, San JosÃ©, California
If anyone interested, please mail me at:
corneel51@yahoo.com or wally.asselberghs@pi.be
Website: www.wallyasselberghs.be

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Raku: A Practical Approach by Steven Branfman
The "nuts and bolts" how-to book of Raku
Order 30% off at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5k
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* Tips and Techniques *
Wood-fired Raku
By Lars B.

Just read your great November newsletter and noticed the
section regarding kilns. You suggested either a gas or an
electric kiln. You did not mention a wood fired kiln (for
the glaze firing) I think it is worth mentioning because it
has some advantages.

A wood fired kiln may take some time to build (but can be
done in a day) and it's the cheapest one to build/run if
you have the wood.

I always suggest a wood fired kiln when a large amount of
items need to be fired during one day. A wood fired kiln
takes some time to fire up to the right temperature - but
when it gets there it stays there quiet easily and little
effort is required to keep it going.

You can fire load by load without having to wait for the
kiln to heat again. And you can preheat your items around
the top of the kiln so that they do not get damaged when
entered into the kiln.

I use gas when I have a few firings that need to be done
fast. But when I have a lot, or are with other potters, a
wood fired kiln really gets the work done. And it is a
great experience with the hot oven against the night sky
and it's the most natural (original) way of burning your
stuff.

Last, but not least, when you are done - normally in the
middle of the night Â you can have a nice barbecue on top
of the still hot kiln. (It takes days before it cools
again).

I have a photo series of how to build a wood fired kiln
here: http://boegner.dk/bygovn the subtext is currently in
Danish but the photos tell it all. If you would like more
information I also have the drawing to the kiln (but
have not put it online yet).

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Amazon sells more than books! The holidays are coming!
Avoid the lines, shop online without leaving your easy
chair, and help support this newsletter all at the same
time by using the following link: http://tinyurl.com/x5xa
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* Q & A *

Q: I'm having a problem with glazing on Raku. Recently, I
had the glaze falling off my pots completely in powder
form, normally around 15 minutes into the firing (perhaps
around 300 degrees, at slow firing). Today I stopped the
firing, as there was almost none left on the test tiles I
was firing. The temperature was still very low, perhaps 300
to 400 Celsius as I was attempting to fire very slowly.
I have a self-made gas kiln, which has worked well in the
past.

I don't understand why now the glazes applied are falling
off in powder form. They do mature eventually on the shelf.
In the past with previous experiments we had good results.
Perhaps some pieces were over fired, or under fired, but we
never experienced this flaking off, or even as today,
falling off as powder.

Bearing in mind that:
Bisque were fired to 900 Celsius
Pieces are clean before applying glazes,
We are firing them with a really slow fire
We tried to apply glazes in different thickness by dipping
for 2 to 5 seconds or pouring the glazes over, or applying
with a brush.

What could be the cause? Is it possible that we are now
starting the firing too slowly, to the point where we
create a reduced atmosphere? And this could be forcing the
glazes not to adhere to the pot? I would appreciate any
help.

A: Boy, that's a new one to me! I've never seen a powder
glaze fall off the piece before it melted in the kiln
before.

Your details address some of the thoughts I had:
1) Fired the bisque too hot
2) Piece was covered with dust or grease
3) Glaze was applied too thickly
4) Glaze was not allowed to dry enough

Now it is possible you had a heavy reduction before the
glaze starts to melt could potentially cause this problem.
I know some glazes will bubble during heavy reduction, so
maybe this could "pop off" the dry glaze.
The other question is why do you fire so slowly? Is the
glaze dry when you start to fire? Are the pieces in the
direct path of the flame? Are you forcing a lot of air
through the kiln? I could see this possible influencing the
dry glaze.

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"Bought your book - great compendium!"
http://www.rakuglazes.com
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* Glazing *

I had several readers have questions about the Raku glaze
Hawaiian Copper Blue and the challenge of achieving
interesting colors. The following is my feedback on using
this glaze.

This is the challenge of that glaze.

If you are getting just Blue or Green, you are not getting
enough reduction - either firing or post-firing. To get Red
and/or Magenta you need to starve the copper of oxygen. So
either fire the kiln in reduction for part of the firing,
or increase the amount of post-firing reduction.

Now if you get just copper, you are reducing too much, so
back off the firing or post-firing reduction a little bit.

The way I fire this glaze is as follows:
1) Thin coat of glaze
2) Fire to about 1800F in about 45 minutes
3) Pull from kiln and hold in the air about 5 seconds
4) Place in garbage can lined with sheets of newspaper
5) Throw a hand full of shredded paper over the piece
6) Lid the can and let cool for about 20 minutes
7) Dunk in water
8) Pray for Color!!!

300+ More Raku Glazes can be found at:
http://www.rakuglazes.com

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Raku Pottery by Robert Piepenburg
The must have "Bible" of Raku
Order at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5b
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* Reader Feedback *

In the November issue of your newsletter, John S. said the
following: "Here's a good cheep way of sealing Raku pots
for functional use. Just use some wood varnish or anything
similar."
Does this mean that the piece would be food safe? Could I
actually make a mug, for example, that could be safely
used? The other possible interpretation is that the piece
would only be waterproof, adequate to use as a vase for
fresh flowers, for example.
BTW, I really enjoy your newsletter. Thank you very much
for all the learning opportunities you provide. Keep up the
good work!!
Carol K.
~ ~ ~

Hi Carol:

The varnish should make the piece somewhat water tight, but
I would not use the piece to serve food. I'm not sure what
kind of chemicals could be passed from the varnish to the
food, but it might not taste very good.

Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Gary,

I have been reading your articles in your newsletters and I
appreciate all the cool stuff I find in them every month.
I have a task for you when you get a chance. You seem to
know a lot about Raku glazes. I am enclosing a picture of
pieces that are already made with a Raku glaze that I would
love to get the formula for or pretty darn close. This
glaze is neither a matte nor a gloss. It seems to be in the
middle, like sheen or a satin finish. I visited this
gallery this summer and the people were very friendly but
did not want to give out their secret glaze. Can you tell
what they are using? The gallery is Round Tree Pottery
located in Pensacola , Fl. Even if I can come close, I
would be happy...they produce the richest reds and purples
I have ever seen in Raku.

Thanks for your help,

Michael A.

~ ~ ~

Hi Michael:

Sorry, I didn't get you attachment, but I have seen several
of their pieces on eBay and their website. They do nice
work and get some amazing colors.

I have no idea what glaze they use or the reduction
technique they use, but I would assume they are conducting
both firing and post-firing reduction.

Being in Florida, the high humidity may be influencing the
results as well.

As far as the semi-matte goes, you can often over fire a
matte glaze and get a semi-matte effect. I do this quite a
bit with Hawaiian Blue.

Sorry I couldn't provide more insight.

Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Hi Gary,

Thanks for adding me to your newsletter, it is awesome.

I've been doing some horsehair work lately with some ferric
chloride fuming with good results. I've tried fuming with
bismuth subnitrate and barium chloride as well but neither
of them did anything at the 1100-1200 degree range. I've
heard that cobalt chloride might give a light blue. Got
any suggestions for ways to get other colors from
chemicals? I also tried purple fruit juice and a green
mason stain in water and as you'd imagine nothing from
that. I'd like to find something that will work on both
glazed and raw clay surfaces like the ferric.

Maybe even someone who could explain the difference between
chlorides, sulfates, subnitrates would help.

Thanks,
Brad B.

~ ~ ~

Brad:

I personally have not done any fuming yet (although it is
on my list of things to try), so I many not be much help.

Any Readers have some ideas for Brad?

Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

Query! I obtained a very old square electric high-fire
kiln (27" X 27" od) that I want to convert to a propane
low-fire. Any feedback

Kenny

~ ~ ~

Kenny:

This was covered in a prior issue of Just Raku. Checkout
the following issue:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku18.htm

* * * * * * * * *

Gary
Thanks for doing the Just Raku Newsletter. I really enjoy
getting it each month.

I wanted to share an experience that I was afforded
recently through my participation in the Fulbright Memorial
Fund Teacher Program.

I am a high school art teacher, and the FMF program sent
me, along with 199 other U.S. teachers, to Japan for three
weeks (Nov. 14 - Dec. 3). As I write this I am actually
still in Japan learning about their educational system. We
were also given the chance to do some exploring in Japan on
our own, so I jumped on the bullet train in Tokyo and
headed for Kyoto and the Raku Museum.

This museum is located next door to the residence of Raku
Kichizaemon XV, the 15th generation Raku master, descended
from the originator Chojiro. There I saw many beautiful tea
bowls, beginning with those made by Chojiro in the 1500's.

The museum staff was very gracious and showed me and the
other two FMF'ers a video on the processes of making Raku
by the Japanese method. This was a wonderful experience,
which I would highly recommend to anyone interested in this
art form. I feel as though I have visited Raku Mecca!
For more information go to this web address:
http://www.raku-yaki.or.jp
Jeff A.

~ ~ ~

Hi Jeff:

Thanks for the info on your trip to Japan and the Raku
museum. If I ever get a chance to visit, I will definitely
try to make this part of the visit.

Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

I fire small pieces used for magnets. Mostly, I use 80/20
Gerstley Borate and Nepheline Syenite and a small percentage
of oxides or commercial stains. Sometimes I use ^07, 06,
05 commercial glazes. What I am after is the smoke filled
crackle antique look. I learned this technique from "Mr
Raku" Billy Ray Mangham.

I use a soft firebrick flat to hold small items. Once the
glaze matures, the lightweight brick can easily be lifted
from the kiln and either set in the reduction chamber or
tilted to one side to let the pieces slide off into the
chamber.

Also, short pieces of Nichrome inserted about 3/8" deep and
perpendicular to the flat surface of a soft brick to form
mini stilts is very useful for firing small pieces at risk
of having glaze stick to the brick (small pieces need to be
glazed all the way down their sides to look good).

When the soft brick finally breaks, just put it back
together, wrap a piece of Nichrome wire around it and twist
off the ends of the wire. The brick can also be wrapped
with Nichrome wire before it's first use for Rakuing. This
helps prevent the brick from breaking and dumping some of
the pieces before getting them to the reduction chamber.
When the brick is finally ready to be trashed, save the
Nichrome wire for the next brick.

Keep up the good work,
Jerry M.

* * * * * * * * *

Gary
Hey, great newsletter. Wanted to add to your bead firing
question from Bianka F.

We started our business with Raku beads and found bead
trees were not the answer. We found kick plates from
doors, had them sheared into 2" strips. One kick plate
will give you about 6 frames.

Fold these into a square and drill 4 holes on both ends and
attach the two ends with high temperature wire. This gives
you a square frame that will endure 1,000's of firings. We
grind grooves in the fame to hold the wires in place. You
then string your beads on stainless steel wire and glaze.
These frames are easy to pull and will hold about 100 beads
a firing.

Have fun beading,
Janet P.

~ ~ ~

Jerry & Janet:

Thanks for the tips on firing smalls. It seems there are
an endless number of techniques for Rakuing these small
pieces.

Gary F.

* * * * * * * * *

I do a great many horsehair pieces and have experimented
with various finishes for the pieces. Paste Wax is very
time consuming and clear spray paint turn the piece an ecru
color. I am currently experimenting with spray on wax.
Any other suggestions?

Thanks so much for giving us Rakuist a voice.
Michelle F.

~ ~ ~

Michelle:

I have not done much horsehair work yet, so I don't have
too many suggestions. Any Just Raku readers that would
care to share?

Gary F.

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annual fee Amazon.com Platinum Visa from Bank One
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* Calendar *

eBay listings are the only thing left for this year
http://tinyurl.com/tn08

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Alternative Kilns & Firing Techniques Â James C. Watkins,
Paul Wandless http://tinyurl.com/72aaf
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* Click Away *

Raku Museum
http://www.raku-yaki.or.jp

Salku
http://www.ceramicstoday.com/articles/salku.htm

Just Raku Logowear
http://www.cafepress.com/justraku

Got Raku? It does a Clay Body Good!
http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku

Just Raku Newsletter Archive
The past issues can be found at http://www.JustRaku.com

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Raku: Investigations Into Fire by David Jones
Order 30% off at: http://tinyurl.com/8m5x
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JUST RAKU (C) Copyright 2002-2004, Gary R. Ferguson

Just Raku - Nov 2004 Issue Available

2004-12-15T11:01:00.000-07:00

The November 2004 issue of the Just Raku Newsletter is available here:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/newsletter25.htm

2004-12-14T10:07:00.000-07:00

New page has been posted for all you Harley Davidson Leather boot lovers
http://www.garyrferguson.com/discount_harley_leather_boots.htm

2004-06-30T10:36:00.000-06:00

My Raku Glaze Recipe eBook is still available at:
http://www.rakuglazes.com

2004-06-30T10:30:00.000-06:00

The March issue (#18) of Just Raku Newsletter is available at:
http://www.garyrferguson.com/justraku18.htm